The Aperol spritz is one of the most successful marketing phenomena of modern times. Given a huge publicity push only six years ago, it’s now one of the world’s most popular cocktails, instantly recognisable by its look-at-me-look-at-me, neon-orange colour (ideal for the Instagram age, don’t you know). It’s found on almost every drinks list, from the swankiest of hotel bars to the grubbiest of backstreet boozers.
It’s an easy drink to like, too, especially in the sunshine. Refreshing and with a gentle, appetising bitterness, it’s also very simple to make – the classic recipe is a memorable 3:2:1 (three parts prosecco to two of Aperol and one of soda), and served over ice in a wine glass or tumbler. But Aperol is not the only base for a spritz, and some (myself included) think many of the alternatives make a better, more sophisticated choice to toast the tail end of summer.
Aperol is an amaro, a family of spirit-based, bitter drinks that includes Campari, Select and Cynar, all of which I prefer to Aperol in a spritz, because they are more bitter and less sweet, and, to my middle-aged eye at least, have a much more appealing colour.
The spritz itself has its roots in northern Italy, going back more than a century, when soldiers from the occupying Austro-Hungarian empire liked to add water to the local wine, and it is still the signature aperitivo of Venice. Away from the tourist traps there, it is most often made with Select, and in the most authentic bacari you will be asked if you want it internationale (that is, made with prosecco) or Veneziano (made with with local still white wine, as is more traditional).
The basic spritz formula can be adapted almost endlessly by substituting the amaro with other things. Sweet vermouth works well, whether it’s a cheap-and-cheerful, trusted brand such as Martini Rosso, or one of the more serious vermouths now on the market – try Vault’s Forest Red (£28 for 70cl, 16.6%) or Lustau’s Vermut Blanco (£13.49 for 50cl, Waitrose), an off-dry white vermouth made with a sherry base.
You can even experiment with those bottles of random liqueurs gathering dust on your shelves. A Capri spritz, using limoncello, has a certain on-holiday charm, while more outlandish possibilities include triple sec, amaretto, cherry brandy and hazelnut liqueur. Play around with the proportions to get the right balance (I tend to be heavy-handed with the base drink) and garnish with whatever feels right: a slice of orange is the most usual, but I prefer the sapidity of a green olive.
Four alternative bases for spritz
Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto £30 (70cl) Waitrose, 20%. A revived recipe from the 18th century, scented with bergamot, lemon, camomile, lavender and rose petals.
Select £17 (70cl) Ocado, 17.5%. The spritz amaro of choice for Venetians, traditionally garnished with a green olive to give it a saline twang.
Venice Aperitivo £20 (75cl) The Aperitivo Co, 16%. A brand-new, grown-up homage to Aperol, with lovely layers of passionfruit, grapefruit, hibiscus and bitter orange.
St Germain Elderflower Liqueur £22 (50cl) Majestic, and widely available elsewhere, 20%. Garnish your St Germain spritz with mint leaves and a wedge of lime to make what’s known as a Hugo cocktail.
Kate Hawkings’ latest book, The Little Book of Aperitifs, is published in October by Quadrille at £10. To order a copy for £9.30, go to guardianbookshop.com
