The vast new whaling ‘mother ship’ that Japan hopes will revive a shrinking industry

The Kangei Maru’s range is fuelling speculation that Japan may be prepared to return to whaling in the Southern Ocean. Photograph: Justin McCurry/The Guardian

The dish of the day has the appearance and consistency of steak. But the item on the menu at Nisshin Maru in Shimonoseki isn’t brisket or rib-eye – it is a prime cut of the restaurant’s speciality: whale meat.

Every few minutes, chefs in the open kitchen produce another plate of cetacean delicacies – raw sashimi marbled with fat, slices of “bacon”, roast minke whale cut into bite-size pieces and served with a selection of dipping sauces. On a warm weeknight, every table is full.