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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Tristan Rutherford

The ultimate travel guide to Thailand: where to stay, what to eat and how to get around

Collage of pictures of Thailand

Everything you should know about visiting Thailand

Thailand is Asia at full volume. The street food is the zingiest. The sand is the whitest. The nightlife is the most atmospheric. The wildlife, including spontaneous elephant sightings and swinging gibbons, is the most intense.

The best news? All these things to do in Thailand are resolutely accessible. Trains and ferry transfers connect to verdant islands and national parks. Even airport vendors sell massages and mango salad – Thailand gives 100% from the moment you arrive.

  • The famous James Bond island in Phang Nga bay

When is the best time of year to visit Thailand?

The best time for great weather
Let’s get this straight: Thailand promises memories of a lifetime whatever the weather. Every day, visitors will stumble upon incense-fragranced festivals and cacophonous street markets. Average temperature highs rise from a sunny 31C in December to a scorching 35C in May – either way, it’s always warm.

By happy coincidence, the months that are driest and coolest (a relative term in Thailand) mirror the wettest and coldest months in Britain. Simply put, the best time to visit Thailand for great weather is from November through March.

Thailand in low season: the best time for fewer visitors
Thailand is less busy and consequently less expensive from April through October. That said, compared to tropical destinations such as the Bahamas or Seychelles, Thailand is easy on the wallet whatever time of the year. The heaviest rains fall in Phuket and Bangkok from June to September and in Hua Hin and Koh Samui from October to November.

The best time to see nature in Thailand

  • Thailand’s national parks are ideal for hiking, or exploring on the water. Photograph: Getty Images

Thailand has more than 150 national parks, protecting some 30% of the country, and more than 1,400 islands circled with hawksbill turtles and lionfish, while Asian fairy-bluebirds and white-bellied sea eagles patrol the sky. There are natural wonders to be spotted every month of the year.

In the Kaeng Krachan national park, a Unesco-listed wildlife reserve near Hua Hin, December to April is best for dryer, cooler hikes with the chance to spot sun bears. In May and June, rains start the bird breeding season while the jungle blooms. There are also trails on Phuket and Koh Samui, Thailand’s biggest and most popular islands, though it’s best to avoid them in heavy rain.

  • The KO Lounge at Conrad Koh Samui

Where to stay in Thailand: the best hotels and resorts

DoubleTree by Hilton Phuket Banthai Resort
DoubleTree by Hilton Phuket Banthai Resort showcases the best of Phuket in a resort centred around three gigantic swimming pools. It’s next to Patong, the island’s bustling heart, yet a short stroll from the town’s silver sands. The Port restaurant serves island delights such as rock lobsters and blue crabs. Every activity and every bite is a taste of Phuket.

Best of all, a visit to the resort is a holiday in itself. Handcrafted cocktails are served at Timmy’s swim-up bar. The recently refreshed lobby is a social hub bathed in natural light. The resort’s very own tuk-tuk service escorts guests to premium rooms. The entire experience is refreshingly modern, yet totally Thai.

  • Sip on mojitos at DoubleTree by Hilton Phuket Banthai Resort

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa
Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa is an architectural icon. It crests like a giant wave alongside the Gulf of Thailand. The location is as sublime as the tropical cocktails served in the rooftop bar. The resort is steps away from the three attractions that make Hua Hin sing: white sand beaches, the historic train station and the night market where lobsters are seared on communal grills.

More than any other address, the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa is all about the food. White Lotus is a rooftop Sichuan and Cantonese restaurant best visited during the sunset-to-starlight sitting. Gingerfire fuses Asian flavours using wok, steam and mortar, all overlooking the hotel’s seafront lagoon pool. Asian feasts can be burned off in the 24-hour fitness centre or with a Thai boxing lesson.

  • The rooftop Bar at Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

Conrad Koh Samui
Welcome to the world of discreet luxury at Conrad Koh Samui. Perched across a jungly hillside are 82 stand-alone villas, every one with its own infinity pool. To ensure privacy, each is linked to the complimentary spa and sublime beach via a series of forested pathways traversed by golf buggies. The Conrad Koh Samui kids’ club encourages little ones to collect eggs from the resort’s organic farm and take part in junior yoga sessions.

Memories are the biggest takeaway from Conrad Koh Samui. The experiential restaurants and spa utilise ingredients from the hotel’s organic farm to elevate both farm-to-table recipes and jasmine oil massages. Workshops encourage guests to make their own organic kombucha or craft a herbal compress. Thanks to these experiences, the Thai spirit can be packed for the voyage home.

  • Each of Conrad Koh Samui’s villas has its own inifinity pool

Hilton Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Golf Resort & Spa
This is Bangkok’s “everything” address. A tranquil airport-adjacent resort that’s a 30-minute cab ride from the downtown sights. Hilton Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Golf Resort & Spa has an urban golf course plus a spa that looks like a Thai temple. The warm Thai welcome is perfect for jet-lag recovery or tricky transits. There’s even a kids’ club and fitness centre.

Rooms at this golf-vacation-relaxation hybrid are modern and spacious. All have private balconies that overlook the gardens or golf course, where visitors can book a sunrise or night-time golf session. A complimentary shuttle runs back to the airport in time for your next adventure.

  • All of Hilton Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Golf Resort & Spa’s rooms overlook the gardens or the golf course

Conrad Bangkok
Conrad Bangkok is a landmark hotel on Wireless Road, one of Bangkok’s most eminent streets. The location pairs the quiet of surrounding embassies with the buzz of the central business district. The Phloen Chit Skytrain stop, minutes away via Conrad’s complimentary shuttle bus, seamlessly connects to this awe-inspiring city.

Most importantly, Conrad Bangkok is a city centre sanctuary. Guest rooms incorporate calming materials such as silk and wood. The gigantic palm-trimmed pool is perfect for idling after shopping sprees. Seasons Spa offers rejuvenating treatments, while Bodyworx Fitness Center re-energises guests 24 hours a day. The Conrad also has a dedicated pickleball court, and if you still have energy to spare, there are workshops on offer. Culturally rich Conrad Moments for guests include Thai tea ceremonies and a mocktail workshop for kids.

  • At Conrad Bangkok, the focus is on tranquility

Millennium Hilton Bangkok
The views from Millennium Hilton Bangkok are utterly iconic. A swim in the infinity pool delivers 360-degree skyline panoramas that include the Chao Phraya River, the city’s vital artery, and neighbouring Iconsiam, one of Asia’s most modern malls. In short, high-end retail and timeless culture are steps away. Alternatively, guests can ride the Skytrain across the city or take the river shuttle from Sathorn pier.

The hotel is both a central address and a retreat from the city it commands. The Eforea Spa offers traditional massages, Thai herbal compresses and a jet-lag revival package, all followed by lemongrass tea. When the vibe returns, take the elevator to the 31st-floor’s ThreeSixty Rooftop restaurant for sunset cocktails and live music, as the city shimmers beyond.

  • Enjoy music, cocktails and a panoramic view at the ThreeSixty Rooftop restaurant and bar

Hilton Pattaya
This 34-storey hotel dazzles on the Pattaya skyline and towers above the resort’s golden sands. The views are best seen from Horizon, an award-winning rooftop restaurant, that serves signature dishes such as miso snow fish and seafood towers. Down below, the restaurant Edge serves a seven-theme Asian buffet every single day. The lobby mimics the shoreline outside with seashell-inspired artworks, coastal colours and a ceiling with a rippling design inspired by the curves of sand dunes.

  • Hilton Pattaya is right in the heart of the action

Hilton Pattaya sits at the beating heart of Asia’s most vibrant destination. When the heat rises on the adjoining beach, Southeast Asia’s largest beachfront shopping complex – Central Pattaya – beckons a short walk away. The resort’s speedboat takes 20 minutes to reach Coral Island, a paradisical islet encircled by sand. Several of Thailand’s best golf courses are a short drive away. When the party’s over, Hilton Pattaya offers tropical respite in its 17th-floor Asian-inspired Eforea Spa and the infinity pool, just one storey below.

  • Hua Hin

The best regions for holidaymakers in Thailand

Hua Hin
Hua Hin is the royal resort founded by Thailand’s kings who railroaded south from Bangkok for family vacations. The vibe is still understated and elegant, with street stalls, palaces and vineyards to visit beyond the sandy beach.

Phuket
Phuket is Thailand’s largest and most popular island. Visitors can experience the best of the nation during a single stay, including night markets (like Chillva market), golden beaches (like Ya Nui) and wildlife adventures (Sirinat national park).

Koh Samui

  • In Koh Samui, visit the laughing Buddha and enjoy the pristine beaches. Photographs: Stocksy United, Shutterstock

Thailand’s second-largest and second-most visited island is Koh Samui. The watchword is boutique luxury. Even the bouji airport, where alfresco cafes are shaded by swaying palms, ranks among the coolest in the world. Private resorts are tucked away in natural corners, serenaded by nightingales and lapping waves.

Bangkok

  • Bangkok is where the modern world meets Thailand’s ancient history. Photographs: Stocksy United, Shutterstock

Bangkok is the pulsing Asian megacity where funky glass skyscrapers frame an ancient warren of khlong canals. No destination in Southeast Asia distils such a package of heritage, nightlife, shopping and cuisine.

  • Thailand’s world-beating cuisine comes from four distinct regions

What to do in Thailand: from top attractions and restaurants, to massages and adventures

Nature
Wildlife is instantly accessible from almost any location. In Phuket, for example, a stroll inside the Khao Phra Thaeo wildlife sanctuary might bring sightings of flying foxes and langur monkeys. Near Hua Hin, the Pala-U waterfalls host hornbills and porcupines. Bangkok’s “green lung” is Bang Krachao island. On arrival from the small ferry, visitors can rent bikes to cycle past kingfishers and monitor lizards year-round.

  • It’s easy to get in touch with nature in Thailand. Photograph: Getty Images

Food
From the humblest pad Thai noodles to the glitziest rooftop tasting menus, Thai food is world-beating. Recipes call on four distinct regions: spicy north-eastern flavours from Isaan province; seafood-rich southern cuisine from Phuket and Koh Samui; meats and sticky rice from Chiang Mai in the north; balancing spices and curries from the centre around Bangkok. As internal migration is common, a hybrid of these four flavour combinations can be found in every corner of the country. Thai wine is making inroads. Thai-produced craft beers, from Chang Unpasteurised to smaller boutique brewers, are excellent.

Massage

  • Massages are part of the Thai way of life, and available at the spas in Hilton hotels

In Thailand, a massage, rather than a medical appointment, represents frontline healthcare. Massage practitioners are licensed by the Ministry of Public Health. Rubdowns are so commonplace that visitors can order anything from a streetside foot massage to a full-body ritual on the beach. Be aware that traditional nuad Thai massage is a body manipulation technique that stretches every sinew to ensure better energy flow.

Shopping
It’s not about the items (although silk scarves and herbal inhalers make fabulous buys), but the atmosphere. Street markets such as Chatuchak in Bangkok are vital entrepots, with food vendors and massage joints alongside, while ultramodern malls such as Iconsiam in Bangkok or Central Samui on Koh Samui are daytrips in themselves. Thousands of local designs (handcrafted suits, body creams) and big brands are made in Thailand, so expect designer bargains too.

Adventure
Take your pick from jungle treks to ziplines, from whitewater rafting to kitesurfing. Thailand raises the pulse by offering activities found in few other places, like a guided cycle tour through night-time Bangkok or a Muay Thai kickboxing lesson inside a luxury hotel. Surprises abound. For example, Hua Hin is near Monsoon Valley vineyard, which hosts bike trips and birdwatching sessions. Phuket features rock climbing and waterfall swims. Koh Samui offers longtail boat tours and temple hikes. The best hotels arrange memories of a lifetime as part of the package.

  • The classic Thai tuk-tuk

Getting around Thailand: tuk-tuks, trains and internal flying

A few words of Thai will elevate you among the 33 million foreign tourists who visit Thailand each year. Mai pen rai means “no worries”. Aroy means “delicious”.

Most travellers arrive at Bangkok’s main or secondary airports, Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang respectively. Forget taxis. Both airports have skytrain-style connections with downtown for £1 a ride. Both airports host kiosks that can install a local sim card, which will prove cheaper than mobile roaming. Inexpensive internal flights link Bangkok to Phuket, while those from Bangkok to Koh Samui tend to be more expensive.

Asian countries such as Japan and Singapore live by the rules. Thailand lives by its wits. Tuk-tuk commutes are frantically fun. Train rides evolve into communal feasts. The best memories are happenstance: a hidden temple, a telegenic street smoothie, a one-of-a-kind boutique. Bear in mind that in Thailand, cash is king.

If you know, you know: chart your journey with a train passport
The newest and coolest addition to Thailand’s more than 2,500 miles of train tracks is the country’s state railway passport. Pick one up for £2.50 at the Thai Railway Museum in Bangkok’s historic Hua Lamphong station, where trains still run to Hua Hin and the River Kwai. Passengers who visit any of 162 iconic stations are rewarded with illustrated passport stamps.

To book your ultimate trip to Thailand with Hilton, visit here

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