Lunch in Granada is not a calm affair. At 3pm in Bodegas Castaneda, a crowded, old-school tapas bar, every inch of the cluttered bar counter is taken. Waiters shout orders and squeeze between standing diners, plates of rose-pink jamón serrano and sizzling croquetas held above their heads, beer taps flick back and forth, wedges of tortilla Española and golden calamari pass above chilled glasses of fino.
We’ve come to try the Calicasas – the Bodega’s infamous mix of vermouth, gin, rum, soda and spices – and sip it gingerly while tucking into a mountainous platter of jamón serrano and local cheeses. One glass apiece and we’ve adjusted to the volume and have a feeling we could settle in for the rest of the day. A second glass is tempting, but we can’t spare the time; with only two days in one of Spain’s most fascinating cities, there’s simply too much to see.
