The tiny Philippine island on the frontline of the US-China battle for supremacy

Fuga Island in the Philippines, a site that the US military may gain access to as part of a deal to monitor China's activity around Taiwan. Photograph: Raffy Lerma/The Guardian

The azure waters are inviting and its long stretches of clear white sand are spotless. But hardly anyone is swimming or sunbathing. Fuga Island is not a holiday destination.

The residents of the remote community of just over 2,000 on the northern tip of the Philippines are farmers and fishermen – growing palay and corn; raising native chicken, pigs and goats; and catching their bounty from the sea.