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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Entertainment
Jonathan Romney

The Taste of Things director Tran Anh Hung: ‘Cinema needs to be very sensual, very physical’

Tran Anh Hung photographed in Paris by Cyril Zannettacci for the Observer New Review, January 2024.
Tran Anh Hung photographed in Paris by Cyril Zannettacci for the Observer New Review, January 2024. Photograph: Cyril Zannettacci/The Observer

The current menu for film and TV stories about cuisine is all conflict and crisis – kitchens as battlefields, dishes forged in the white-hot skillet of raging tempers. But new French film The Taste of Things couldn’t be further from The Bear or Boiling Point. A controlled simmer is more the temperature of this piece by Vietnamese-born director Tran Anh Hung – the most rapturous hymn to culinary art since such beloved gourmet outings as Babette’s Feast or Eat Drink Man Woman.

Set in the 1880s, the film – which won Tran the best director award at Cannes last year – is about the relationship between cook Eugénie (Juliette Binoche) and her gourmet employer and lover Dodin (Benoît Magimel). But the film is ultimately about creativity, says Tran. “I wanted to make a movie about art and I chose food, because this art is very concrete. For me, cinema is something that needs to be very sensual, very physical.”

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