In April 2013, a narrow Braddon room broke the rules. The city's kitchens have been setting their own terms ever since.
It happened when a room opened on Lonsdale Street with a blackboard for a menu, hip-hop where the hush used to be, and an $86 all-you-can-eat option for the brave. The dishes ran out as the night wore on, and a hand crossed them off the board one by one. The floor used some colourful language at the time, and you came back for more.
