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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jay Rayner

The Sportsman Club, West Bromwich: ‘You’ve won at lunch’ – restaurant review

‘There’s no doubting its pubbiness’: The Sportsman Club, West Bromwich.
‘There’s no doubting its pubbiness’: The Sportsman Club, West Bromwich. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

The Sportsman Club, 13 High Street, West Bromwich B70 6PP (0121 553 1353). Starters £3-£10.50, mains £4.50-£10.50, desserts £2, beers from £3.80

Some people have too much time on their hands. One of them is a reader I’ll call Ian, because that’s his bloody name. Early in 2022 he sent me an ominous email explaining that he would be keeping a close eye on how many of my reviews were outside London in the coming year. On the second working day of 2023, he delivered on that delightful promise. He sent me an Excel spreadsheet of all my 2022 reviews. Just picture Ian, every Sunday morning, tongue gripped between teeth, making another entry, perhaps grinning with vindication over that review from Shoreditch, or slightly disappointed that I’d been to Swansea or Preston. Happily, for Ian, it all came good. Apparently only 52% of my reviews were outside London. Fair to say, Ian was very, almost performatively, disappointed in me.

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