
Croeso i Gymru. The “Welcome to Wales” sign flashed past as I crossed over the Severn Estuary, to find the landscape swathed in brooding clouds. Despite the characteristic weather, I was excited to begin my three-day road trip along the 160-mile-long border between England and Wales.
Beginning in Chepstow – where an 11th-century Norman castle guards the southern gateway to Wales – the border carves a path north towards the Dee Estuary. I was loosely following the route of Offa’s Dyke, an 8th-century earthwork that divided the earliest Anglo-Saxon kingdoms from their Welsh counterparts. It is arguably Britain’s oldest border.