For centuries, spices have been at the heart of British food culture, and today are found in almost every type of meal, from curries and stir-fries to pies and even pasta dishes. Their job? To lift flavours, enhance aromas and add richness and colour.
The story of many of our best-known spices can be traced back to ancient India, where as well as being used to flavour food they were prized as medicines. Texts refer to cloves aiding digestion, sesame poultices healing wounds and turmeric being known for its soothing effect.
As knowledge of spices grew, trade routes were established, transporting them to the Middle East, the Mediterranean and finally, during the middle ages, to British shores. They were expensive and coveted – and being able to serve a richly spiced stew was a status symbol.
Even today, cooks covet spices, and are just as excited as our ancestors by the flavours, depth and richness they bring to a dish.
“Turmeric, saffron, paprika and chilli all impart colour and flavour,” says Tasneem Alonzo, the spice expert who supplies Charlie Bigham’s with an array of enticing ingredients that help its ready-to-cook dishes stand out from the crowd. “On the other hand, cinnamon, ginger and garlic are all aromats that touch the sensory aspects of smell and taste.”
For Charlie Bigham, founder of the ready-to-cook food business that bears his name, spices are vital, and not just for his ever-popular curries. “I add spices across the different cuisines,” he says. “And I always go for fresh spices – ideally bought whole, roasted quickly and then ground in a pestle and mortar. Take our moussaka, for example. It contains our own blend of coriander, cinnamon, cayenne pepper and black pepper, which transforms it.”
Bigham’s love of spices was inspired by his travels across India in the mid-90s. He learned how to make the most of them by observing local ways of life. In particular, he remembers how people bought only small quantities, because they planned to “use the spices while they were fresh”.
When it comes to Charlie Bigham’s curries, from chicken jalfrezi to cauliflower and paneer, there’s a spicy secret to share. “Adding spices at different stages of the cooking process can make a huge difference,” Bigham says. “For instance, it’s important to add the more aromatic, subtle spices towards the end of cooking to maintain their flavour.”
Bigham reminds us that spices aren’t just for Asian food. “The nutmeg in a bechamel sauce for lasagne bridges the flavour between sweet and savoury,” he says. “And star anise adds a hint of sweetness in beef bourguignon to round the wine off nicely.”
Alonzo says that every spice has its place in a dish. Whole spices, such as mustard, cumin, cloves, cardamon and cinnamon, provide the “base notes” and are used earlier in the cooking process to release the aromas, oils and flavours. While ground spices provide the top notes. Blends such as garam masala, known as “a finishing spice”, should go in last.
When it comes to formulating your own spice recipes, Bigham says there really is no right or wrong way, because experimentation is key to what is a creative, aromatic process. “Every Indian chef makes their own blend [of spices]. So, experimenting is something to embrace,” he says.
A world of flavour – Charlie Bigham’s top spice tips
Charlie Bigham shares his knowledge – and love – of all things spice
What key spices should I have in my spice rack?
Mustard seeds, cumin (seeds and powder), turmeric, chillies crushed and powder, smoked paprika, ginger powder, garam masala and ras-el-hanout are all must-haves.
How should spices be stored?
Keep spices in airtight containers, as exposure to air will cause them to lose their aroma. Warm temperatures also reduce taste, so keep your spice rack out of the sun.
How do I keep my spices fresh?
Buy and use whole spices or grind them shortly before use to maximise freshness.
How do I know which to use?
Nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and cardamon add a subtle sweetness to dishes, while coriander powder, cumin and garam masala enhance the dish with a distinctive taste. Sharper spices such as dried chillies, chilli powder and pepper render heat.
For how long should spices simmer?
Cooking times are determined by the dish, rather than the spice. Whole spices such as dried chillies, cinnamon barks and mustard seeds should be added at the beginning. Ground spices infuse quickly and should be added later, simmering for 10 minutes or less.
Even the best home cooks like the occasional night off, and that’s where Charlie Bigham’s dishes come into their own. With everything from chicken satay curry to steak pies and paella, it has never been easier to feed your family well
