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Salon
Salon
Lifestyle
Ashlie D. Stevens

The secret to sky-high biscuits

Biscuits can take a beating. They get shoved into paper fast-food bags, drowned in sausage gravy and yanked from refrigerated tubes with a jarring pop. They’re the workhorses of the American table — dependable, durable, built for grab-and-go breakfasts and those messy, wonderful Sunday suppers. But what if we treated them with a little more care? Not in a fussy, croquembouche kind of way — just enough to give them the structural ambition they deserve. What if, instead of slapping them together and hoping for the best, we thought of them a bit more like croissants?

Now, the biscuits I grew up with were sturdy creatures. There were the buttery drop biscuits my mom made to accompany turkey and mashed potatoes on Sunday afternoons, the thin, almost defiant frozen biscuits my grandmother baked to pair with steak and gravy for holidays and the hand-rolled, slightly salty buttermilk biscuits from Cracker Barrel, a road trip staple on our annual 13-hour slog from Kentucky to South Carolina. All of them built to hold up under the weight of hearty meals, never delicate enough to be anything more than dependable.

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