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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
World
Mark Jones

The Saudi culture hub in the heart of the desert

The world’s largest mirrored building, the mesmerising Maraya concert and exhibition hall in AlUla

(Picture: jess partridge)

We are at a Greek restaurant called Okto. You’ve never been to a Greek restaurant like this in your life, nor to any restaurant like this at all. It sits high up on an arid, volcanic plateau called Harrat Uwayrid. The dry, gravelly earth is black, the stone is black, the tables are black and the waiters are all dressed in black, too — although their faces are pink. There is no shade up here and the wind and the sun are very strong indeed.

Below our table, two men gently lead an elderly lady up the concrete steps. The breeze buffets her black robe as ‘Get Lucky’ blasts out of the tall, black speakers. Below, more figures in black move to and fro along the paths. They are gazing — and selfie-taking — over a scene of barely believable majesty.

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