The safari that taught me to step out of the Land Rover

The Borana Conservancy sits in the foothills of Mount Kenya - (Borana/James Lewin)

I’m confident I could redirect a great white shark. I’ve watched Shark Whisperer. And I’ve practised my “hey bear” in the event I encounter a grizzly in the Rockies. But Netflix has a horn-shaped hole for its rhino deterrent advice.

So I’m dancing with death on Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau. Well, that’s how it feels on horseback in the Borana Conservancy’s protected rhino lands, a decade after a riding fall landed me in a hypnotist’s chair.