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The Independent UK

Travel

Sian Elvin

The Phoenicia Malta, Floriana, hotel review

Malta Valletta

Right on the doorstep of the capital Valletta, and the only Leading Hotel of the World in Malta, this 1920s-style hotel with an intriguing history exudes luxury, allowing visitors to relax in its tranquil spa, seven acres of gardens and gorgeous infinity pool

Location

Just outside the main entrance to the city, the Phoenicia is only a few minutes’ walk from all the main bars and restaurants in Valletta. Despite this, as it is nestled within its large gardens and next to the fortification walls of the city, the hotel is quiet at night and offers incredible panoramic views across the Marsamxett Harbour. It is also less than a 30-minute drive from Malta International Airport and well located for exploring the rest of the island.

The vibe

The Phoenicia is only a few minutes’ walk from all the main bars and restaurants in Valletta (Sian Elvin)

The Phoenicia proudly describes itself as the island’s first five-star hotel, and the decor across the property reflects this in both its historical and grand elements. The build started just before the Second World War, and its opening was delayed after bombing caused damage. But its foundations held and the hotel’s first visitor was eventually welcomed in 1947, followed by the then-newlywed Princess Elizabeth in 1949.

Its art collection is a nod to its heritage, featuring work by Maltese artist Edward Caruana Dingli. It also has what it calls a “living gallery”, which showcases a different local artist every month.

The service

The friendly hotel staff couldn’t have been more eager to help with any requests or queries, ensuring we were well looked after throughout our stay. The restaurant team are particularly helpful when navigating dietary requirements and the spa team went above and beyond to ensure our comfort, too.

Bed and bath

The tiled simplicity of the Mediterranean flooring and decor felt calming (Sian Elvin)

The hotel boasts 132 rooms, ranging from classic to deluxe. Rooms are simple and styled with Mediterranean flooring in deep blues and creams and the decor feels calming and in keeping with the 1940s architecture. The room and bathroom weren’t huge, but this cultivated more of a cosy feeling, rather than lots of unnecessary space that sometimes comes with larger hotels. The true star of the show is the balcony – if you have a room which includes one – featuring the most stunning views across Malta and a small table and chairs to accommodate late-night drinks before bed.

Food and drink

The catch of the day, pagru, was crisp on the outside and perfectly flaky on the inside (Sian Elvin)

Before my first visit to Malta, I had high hopes of lots of fish and seafood as part of its cuisine, and imaginings of everything being super fresh. And an evening spent at Contessa, the Phoenicia’s main restaurant, certainly did not disappoint – with a focus on seasonal dishes and local produce, I couldn’t resist going all in on the seafood. The red prawn crudo to start was deliciously drenched in olive oil, and the catch of the day, pagru, a type of sea bream commonly served in Valletta, was crisp on the outside and perfectly flaky on the inside.

As someone with coeliac disease, it was refreshing to dine at a hotel where there was a wide range of gluten-free options and staff were confident in navigating my dietary requirements. Breakfast buffets are often a no-go for me, but I was brought fresh items from the kitchen and the cooked-to-order egg station meant I didn’t go without. Service was often slower when bringing me gluten-free dishes, but I am always happy to wait, as it suggests the kitchen staff are working carefully to ensure my safety.

Facilities

The outdoor infinity pool is an Instagram spot not to be missed (Sian Elvin)

The absolute highlight of this property is the facilities on offer. As we visited off-season when the weather was slightly cooler, we made the most of the indoor areas. The heated pool and salted sauna were softly lit, creating a tranquil atmosphere. I opted for the Phoenicia Signature massage, which was different to any massage I’ve ever had before. It was almost ritualistic in nature, switching between the use of hot stones and bamboo to roll my muscles. My masseuse checked that I was comfortable at every stage, too, which really helped me relax. The outdoor area offers pristine gardens perfect for a drink in the sunshine, and an inviting infinity pool which is so picture-perfect, you almost don’t want to get in and ruin the incredible city views.

Accessibility

Accessible twin rooms are available, and they have wet room flooring, lower sinks and higher-level toilets.

Pet policy

Pets up to 12kg are permitted, with pet-friendly rooms and a garden for walking in. They are also allowed at dinner.

Check in/check out

Check in is from 3pm and check out is at 12pm. Early check in and late check out are also available subject to availability.

Family-friendly?

Children of any age are welcome and cots can be provided free of charge for babies up to two-year-olds. There are no extra beds available and children aged 13 and above will be charged as adults.