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“Please be kind, watch us quietly and let us sleep,” hikers are cautioned as they creep up a craggy Cornish coastline to gawp at the largest colony of grey seals in the county.
The polite notice conjures images of large groups of tourists crammed shoulder-to-shoulder to get a glimpse of the marine mammals during the peak summer months when visitors descend on Cornwall en-masse. But during our visit, there are only six people ahead of our party as we head up the trail in Godrevy National Trust.
After the group ahead of us depart, we are left in solitude to watch the seals lounge on the beach at Mutton Cove, flanked by high cliffs and only accessible at low tide.
From our viewing point, we count more than two dozen seals in the bay below, the majority of whom are trying to catch 40 winks as the incoming tide laps at their tails. At peak times, there can be up to 200.
Our private viewing of the seals highlights why autumn is one of the best times of year to visit Cornwall. While the weather can be temperamental, sensible tourists come armed with an umbrella and a bottle of sun cream even at the height of summer.
We begin our three-mile walk from our holiday home at Three Mile Beach – a collection of upmarket holiday homes – in lashing rain, barely able to see a few metres ahead as we stumbled along a soggy coastal path. But by the time we reach the headland at Godrevy, the sky is azure blue and the sun beams down on the back of our necks.
Tearing ourselves away from the seals, we round the coastal path for a magnificent view of the Godrevy Lighthouse. This brilliant white 165-year-old building is said to have inspired Virginia Woolf’s novel To The Lighthouse and it prompts us to share stories of Cornwall’s chequered history of smugglers.
Read more: Why autumn is the best time to visit Cornwall
During our visit, we stay at one of the newest editions to Three Mile Beach, misleadingly described as a beach shack. While the phrase evokes images of a tumbledown beach bar, our experience is quite the opposite, offering every element of luxury in a two-bedroom holiday cottage that’s perfect for couples, singletons or small families. Four-legged friends are also welcome.
An incredible amount of thought has been put into ensuring there’s everything a tourist could need in their home from home, including an array of family games and a stash of beach items for a trip to the shore, which is situated just yards from the front door.
The collection of self-catering beach houses lies at the centre of a nature reserve and is only a stone’s throw away from Gwithian Towans Beach, which forms part of the beautiful three-mile stretch of sand in St Ives Bay. It’s a popular spot with surfers due to its year-round swells.
My family and I book some surf lessons with an enthusiastic and patient teacher from Global Boarders Surf School. After two hours, we are self-proclaimed experts, but utterly exhausted, so take ourselves home for a much-deserved rest in our beach shack’s private sunken cedarwood hot tub, followed by a quick stint in the barrel sauna.
Making the most of the temperate weather, we book in for a pizza party in the evening. A pizza oven and hamper full of ingredients are delivered to our holiday home, where we turn our hand to the art of pizza-making using a large selection of locally-sourced ingredients and pizza doughs from a nearby bakery. Guests who prefer easier dining options can select from a wide selection of delicious sharing dishes at the excellent on-site open-air restaurant Chomp.
As the autumn evening sets in, the beach shack is kept wonderfully warm through a combination of an electric Everhot cooker and underfloor heating, with an option to turn up the heat even further with a log burner.
Read more: 7 of the best Cornwall walks, from coastal routes to countryside ambles
Three Mile Beach is a perfect base for exploring other parts of Cornwall including nearby St Ives and St Michael’s Mount. Even in the quieter months, parking in the popular seaside resort of St Ives can be tricky so we choose to catch a train from St Erth. In the peak of summer, it’s standing room only on short Great Western Railway journey, but we manage to bag a window seat (on the right hand side of the train on the outward journey) giving us a delightfully scenic 11-minute ride along the coast, with the imposing Godrevy lighthouse in the distance.
Summer in Britain’s holiday hotspot often includes battling with other visitors through the narrow streets, or clambering to find a spot on some of the nation’s most beautiful beaches. But as children return to school in September, many disperse, though it’s still bustling with a second, smaller, wave of tourists.
We amble along the streets, stopping to watch Cornish fudge-makers at work and pasties being made in shop windows before the heavens open, prompting us to nip into the nearest cafe. Sky’s Diner is a delightful but unexpected stop and a perfect opportunity for us to have a pastie – we sample one vegan and one traditional steak – which are both scrumptious.
On our return to St Erth we realise we are just five miles away from St Michael’s Mount. This tidal island crowned by a medieval church and castle is accessible by causeway during low tide or boat at high tide, so we hop in the car to explore.
Read more: The best things to do in Cornwall when it rains
Sadly, we’re a little too late in the day and rather than risk being swept away by the tide, we venture out on the causeway as far as we can without getting our toes wet to take a closer look at the beautiful island.
On our last night, we plump for a spot of stargazing from the warmth of our hot tub. With very little light pollution, and the luck of a cloud-free evening, we can see the concentration of the Milky Way above our heads and spot a number of shooting stars stream across the night sky. It’s a perfect end to our wonderful Cornish getaway.
How to plan your trip
Prices start from £619 for three nights in a two-bedroom beach shack, based on four guests sharing, including welcome hamper. Visit threemilebeach.co.uk for more information.
