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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Melanie McDonagh

The Peninsula: How well does a £1bn hotel do afternoon tea?

The sandwiches are evenly spaced on the plate in fingers of three – Coronation chicken, cucumber and cheese, beef with rocket – with the harmony of colours bolstered by pink bread made with harissa. The opening plate of savouries includes a lobster Thermidor tartlet, a little dish of pea puree garnished with caviar, and a “London roll” – a curl of croissant pastry with egg in the middle.

The tier of cake – or rather, little desserts – includes a confection of white chocolate shaped like a mini beehive, with a tiny spoon to scoop out the insides of crème brulee mousse with pineapple compote. Then there’s a weeny Battenberg – not the normal sort, but chocolate and tonka squares – and a shiny, tiny chocolate-covered cheesecake garnished with miniature fig, plus a Bramley apple cake as unlike your normal apple tart as you can get, but a choice morsel.

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