“You cannot come into the temple unless you are happy; you have to be smiling when you make an offering,” my guide Srix tells me, a beaming smile stretching across her own face.
I am standing outside the Gunung Kawi Sebatu Temple near Ubud in the rural centre of Bali, while attempting to fix a sarong around my waist. The traditional garment with a golden selendang cloth tie is mandatory to enter the Hindu temple, where I am about to experience a purification ceremony.
