Remember 2020, when we blamed the rise of the mullet on DIY lockdown haircuts and rash decisions? Turns out, mullets were actually just a gateway haircut. Here’s the truth: we are, collectively, entering the punky haircut era — and things are only going to get shorter, wilder and more retro.
We caught up with London’s most in-demand hair stylists — who have worked on everything from Gucci campaigns to celebrity tresses (we’re talking Rihanna, Gemma Chan, Tom Holland, Georgia May Jagger, the lot) — on the hottest hair to rock this summer.
The pixie mullet
Larry King, who runs two West London salons and has worked with the likes of Natalie Portman, Karlie Kloss, Gemma Chan and Tom Holland, picks the “pixie mullet” — dreamt up by his colleague — as his style of the season.
“This cut is by Lilli Bridger, originally my first assistant, who has an incredible taste for what’s the coolest of the cool. She’s been cutting Mia Regan’s hair for a while now and her little pixie mullet is super striking and frames her face beautifully with little feathery whisps.
“It’s a haircut to stand out in — it doesn’t get much cooler than this. To achieve this look I add in My Nannas Mousse at the roots and blow dry it in, feathering out the flicks using a straightener and my flyaway kit brush. Finish with my velvet texture clay to add a grunginess to the whole look.”
‘90s supermodel bob
King also notes the return of the bob this spring, perfect for freeing up your neck on those sweaty summer days. “Lots of people have been asking for a cut I did on an influencer which was inspired by that ‘90s supermodel bob, which is really full bodied, slightly rounded at the front corners and with a really bouncy moveable fringe that can be flipped from side to side. This look really says quiet luxury like nothing else. Bouncy, clean healthy looking hair.”
And other hair stylists are in agreement. Ricky Walters, who runs the celeb-favoured Salon64 in Soho, says when it comes to bobs this summer, go bold and blunt. “Bobs used to be considered basic, boring and overall, a little mumsy,” he says. “Fast forward ten years and bobs scream attitude and sophistication. The Soho social scene know the blunter the bob the better. Cut just below jaw bone and style it poker straight for the ultimate Salon64 signature mirror glass effect.
“Apply a dot of oil — Kevin Murphy Young Again oil, £38, is great for this — on wet hair, blow dry it super straight and follow that by using the straightening irons to lock in the look. Top it off with Colour Wow Shine spray, £26, to elevate the look even further.”
Tangerine dream
As for colour, it’s going to be a pre-raphaelite kinda summer all over again. “Copper is here to stay,” says Stevie Leah, a hairstylist at Blue Tit Brixton, “rich auburns, spicy chilli reds and bright tangerine tones are going to warm us all up even more this summer, making statements with our hair."
She’s got support from Alisha Dobson at Bleach London, who has worked on the likes of Rihanna, Arlo Parks and Georgia May Jagger. “Copper absolutely works for everyone,” she says, “it looks great on all skin tones and since it’s a warm shade it works on a range of bases. You don’t have to lift the hair to a very light blonde to achieve a copper tone, you want to keep some warmth and depth so it is an easier colour to get to if you have naturally dark hair, because bleaching to a very light blonde can sometimes be difficult for brunettes.”
The indie sleaze short crop
Tom Warr, Head of Academy at Blue Tit, who styles the hair of singer Tom Penate and DJ Peaches, commands London’s cool scene to go for a shag. "The shaggy texture is still popular but people are wanting to go shorter and shorter with it, think French bob meets shag. Try pin curling your hair and brushing it out for extra texture.
“It’s inspired by the noughties indie era, with its heavy swept fringe and short-to-longer at the front shape. It also follows the vintage Chelsea cut disconnections.”
Mullet 3.0
The mullet’s third coming is not like its first and second, or its sister iteration, the aforementioned pixie mullet. It’s thick, textured and made for those with plenty of hair already, whereas the pixie mullet works well with less coarse hair. You also want a bit of a wave, ideally.
Steven Buller, director at trendy, plant-filled, sustainable salon Buller And Rice, says: “It’s definitely not as severe as the early ‘00s version, and has plenty of texture and movement. It works best by enhancing the natural movement of the hair, a ‘wash and go’ system. It has that late ‘70s, early ‘80s vibe, and is very fluid amongst gender. Works best with shades, and trucker hat! As seen on Miley Cyrus and Paul Mescal.”
Extra long box braids and canerows
For afro hair, ‘tis the season for big braids, according to Portobello Road based hair stylist Charlotte Mensah. “Box braids and canerows are the most versatile style you can wear in the summer,” she says. “Easy for vacations and staycations, they’re classic, cool, fun, and playful and add extra detail and texture to your locks, whether you want to let your braided locks flow down or put them in an updo. Also adding adornments to your box braids or canerows is the perfect way to give your hair some added flair.”
Take inspo from Zoe Kravitz’s street style, which normally features her braids pulled up in a bun, or half up half down look, as well as the heavily embellished box braids Rihanna rocked while in the Caribbean with A$AP Rocky last year. RiRi also works a good canerow — just look to the 2019 Fashion Awards if you need reminding.
