‘The mountains soothed the soul’: a long walk in Spain’s Pyrenees

Dixe Wills on the path to Refugi Niu de l’Àliga on the first day of the hike, as storm clouds gather. Photograph: Ana Vadeanu

‘You’ve brought the rain with you! Thank you! It hasn’t rained here for two months!” Jordi, piebald-bearded guardian of the isolated Prat d’Aguiló refuge, greeted my companion and me with such effusive smiles and enthusiastic handshakes we almost wondered if he held us personally responsible for ending his local drought.