For several decades, cracked ground in Isan or the Northeast of the country captured the public's imagination. In the 1970s, readers submitted their poems to Satri Sarn, the country's first women's magazine, recounting tales of drought, crop failure and hardship. Some were forced to eat leaves and grasshoppers, not rice, while others who fled their villages in search of jobs in Bangkok were duped or exploited by agents.
But, hopefully, it could soon be a thing of the past. A new wave of "rice tasting" emerged at the third edition of the annual Isan Creative Festival, which wrapped up last week. This year, it had more than 300 programmes in two key venues, Kungsadan and Srichan, in Khon Kaen. Of these, the future of rice -- a staple diet of cheap price and neglect -- took centre stage, envisioning revolutionary possibilities.
"We explore the regional identity via design products in three creative industries, namely entertainment, craft and gastronomy. But for the third year, we want to develop rice tasting," said Chutayaves Sinthuphan, director of the Creative Economy Agency's Khon Kaen Office. "Can we develop speciality rice, like premium wine and coffee, rather than sell it cheaply? I want to find characters and increase its value."
The Thai Isan Farmers Group is a new generation of cultivators who have joined hands to preserve and develop rice strains in a traditional way. Inspired by leftover rice in the kitchen, they held a workshop to encourage participants to blend rice strains, each of which has pros and cons, to create the most healthy recipe.
"It is art and science," said Kaenkhamkla Philanoi, a rice expert who has innovated rice strains for over a decade. "Blending rice carelessly will do more harm than good."
Khaowisut, for example, is fragrant sticky rice known for its high level of slowly degradable sugar, which is suitable for diabetes patients. Vessantara, meanwhile, is fragrant rice with a soft texture like its Japanese counterpart. Partially derived from his father's name, Srithaworndaeng is red sticky rice that grows faster and can be harvested sooner to avoid drought.
"In general, red and black rice strains can provide a high level of nutritional value, but eating them and staying in the heat for too long can cause mouth ulcers. You should blend them in a balanced manner. Not too dark. It will vary from person to person," he said.
In a nearby greenhouse, a wide range of rice strains were on display. At the centre of the room, a large wheel showed three aspects of rice tasting. Due to its variety, the texture of rice can be either described as soft, chewy or crunchy. When it comes to flavour, rice actually leaves a sweet aftertaste. But above all, its aroma is so nuanced that it subtly ranges from floral and fruity to earthy.
"We have eaten rice all our life, but why do we hardly know any of these? I organised rice-tasting workshops and found that we can perceive their differences, but the problem is we never try," said Nop Dharmavanich, lecturer at Bangkok University, who curated the exhibition. "Observe, smell, chew, hold and swallow rice. This is how tasting works. In other words, eat rice slowly to appreciate it."
Its variety paves the way for customising rice consumption. A wide range of imaginary rice products from alcoholic drinks to gadgets were on display. A bar full of bottles, cookers and devices predicted a new dining experience. In the future, you will be able to choose rice strains and ways of eating. For example, you can use a milling machine to produce fresh rice or use a nabe (hotpot) to cook it.
"It comes down to changing our mindset. Rice is not the same and therefore is not a commodity product. If this attitude gains ground, it will naturally set change in motion," he said.
Creative folks are pairing rice with food or music to expand the horizon. At the festival, visitors enjoyed a performance by Ma Kao Hang (Nine-tailed Dog), a contemporary local band, and fusion food. Avani Khon Kaen Hotel introduced khao kum or black sticky rice to some recipes. It became a sauce for grilled duck and flour for chewy stir-fried turnip cake. Meanwhile, larb moo came with a fried black sticky rice ball.
Located in an old town and financial district of Srichan, Baan Heng has continued its long tradition of Chinese sausage for three generations but is now serving it with congee and bread. Not far away, Isan Lounge offers northeastern cuisine to visitors. Pla som (spicy fried fermented fish) and fried rice with pla ra (fermented fish) and grilled pork jowl are recommended.
"I have toned down the seasoned taste a little bit. My pla ra, for example, is not as nua [seasoned] as what we eat on a daily basis. But I have made it more acceptable to visitors from the outside," said Phanupong Rengpattanakij, the native owner of Isan Lounge. "Sometimes, I receive comments that it is not Isan."
But the identity of the Northeast is hard to define. Isan is an area that has linguistic and cultural differences. It had historical and cultural links with neighbouring countries before Siam saw its border drawn in the early 20th century.
After 1932, local leaders resisted the growing centralisation of power in Bangkok and called for resources to alleviate the region's hardship. Some hoped for decolonisation and to unite Lao-speaking areas.
Actually, its fluidity broadens our worldview beyond the region. Cuisine experts held a workshop on shoyu (Japanese soy sauce) tasting and making. I learned each type of shoyu and created my own recipe with tofu. In a special talk, they explored fermented condiments in Asia -- shoyu, nam pla and pla daek -- and exchanged knowledge to break new ground.
"The Isan Creative Festival is a showcase for local artisans who can use this platform to meet people, entrepreneurs and businesses for future collaboration," said Chakrit Pichyangkul, executive director of the Creative Economy Agency. "I want to make them proud of their home to open up new opportunities."
