On a sunny Thursday morning in September, the Pantry in north London is buzzing. Customers browse the wooden crates for celeriac and butternut squash; one picks up a tin of organic tomatoes and pops it in her basket. The smell of rich mushroom soup wafts through the air.
But this is not a luxury food shop with prices to match; it is a “people’s pantry” on an estate that may be a stone’s throw from the high-end retail outlets of King’s Cross but feels a million miles away.
