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Marie Claire
Marie Claire
Lifestyle
Emma Childs

The Internet’s Bias-Cut Debate Is More Nuanced Than You Think

A Future graphic of vintage photos of women wearing bias cut dresses, a blue bias cut skirt, and someone cutting orange fabric.

Lakyn Carlton didn't intend to go viral, but it only took one tweet. On June 7, the personal stylist posted two photos of satin slip skirts she stumbled across when shopping for a client. A turquoise bias-cut midi by the British brand Ghost London, which skimmed the model's body and fluttered outward at the hem, and a straight-cut gray style from Vancouver-based brand Brunette the Label that bunched at the waist, clung to the hips and hit at the mid-calf.

Given their design differences, she decided to turn the midis into a teaching moment about bias cuts. Carlton's caption read, "The difference between a skirt cut on the bias vs. not. It's hard to unsee once you know what you're looking for." This method, pioneered by the French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet in the 1920s, involves cutting fabric (primarily silk) at a 45-degree angle from its woven grain instead of the traditional method of cutting parallel to the grain.

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