Using a potent skincare ingredient like retinol isn’t without its pitfalls. I’ve used both retinol and retinal in the past, but irritation has hindered consistency, so it’s safe to say I was intrigued by The Inkey List’s latest launches: a starter retinol serum and advanced retinal serum (for experienced users or for progressing onto).
With its budget-friendly pricing, and simplified approach to skincare harnessing hero ingredients, The Inkey List has impressed the IndyBest team time and time again. Its face mist, exosome serum and its cleansing balm are just a handful of products we rate, so would these new formulas measure up? As a 41 year-old beauty journalist with sensitive skin, I put the starter retinol serum to the test, assessing performance, but also how gentle it is on more reactive skin.
Billed as a two-step system for gentle, consistent delivery, the starter serum aims to smooth fine lines and improve skin texture, while the advanced serum is said to work on deeper renewal. As outlined by Colette Laxton, co-founder of The Inkey List: “Starting low and slow with retinol supports long-term results. And when your skin is ready, stepping up to retinal delivers faster transformation without compromising comfort.”
The starter retinol serum contains a combination of retinoids and antioxidants, plus 0.01 per cent retinal. Meanwhile, the advanced retinal serum has a stronger formula of 0.2 per cent encapsulated retinal. In case you’re wondering – retinol is a gentle form of vitamin A, while retinal is more potent.
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How I tested
I spent three weeks testing The Inkey List’s starter retinol serum. As a 41-year-old with sensitive skin, I am always keen to find products that offer revitalising and smoothing benefits without causing redness or irritation. I’ve used retinol in the past but haven’t got into a long-term routine, due to not finding one I’ve really loved. I favour products that can slot seamlessly into a busy day, create tangible results and offer value for money. You can read more about the testing criteria I followed at the end of this article.
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The Inkey List starter retinol serum
Size: 30ml
Key ingredients: Dual retinoid complex consisting of: one per cent granactive retinoid pro plus (a combination of retinoids and antioxidants) and 0.01 per cent retinal
Why we love it
- Affordable
- Fast absorption
- Smoothing
Take note
- The pump applicator needs a bit of perseverance at first
- Applying daily SPF is important when using retinol/retinal
The Inkey List’s starter serum is suitable for those who are new to using retinol, or if you have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. The brand claims its encapsulated retinol formula is twice as effective as standard retinol while being gentler on skin. Its inclusion of a hydrating lipid combination and an anti-irritant formula – trademarked cosmetics industry complexes, Amisol Trio and Symrelief – add skin barrier support.
It’s presented in the no-frills black and white packaging synonymous with The Inkey List’s products, and the bottle is a compact 30ml size. Like with all retinols, the recommended usage to start with is two to three times per week, so that skin can adjust and build up a tolerance level. It’s also important to note that daily SPF is vital when using retinol or retinal products because their ingredients make skin far more vulnerable to sun damage.
At first, it took me numerous attempts to release the serum from the pump applicator – I mistakenly thought the seemingly-stuck bottle was broken at one point. But after persevering, it worked fine and I had no further problems. The serum has a lightweight, veil-like silky consistency, no scent and it glides across skin without any runniness. Absorption is fairly fast, and the serum felt fresh on my skin. I did notice an initial tingle with the first few uses, but there was no major irritation to note at any point.
I sandwiched the retinol serum between layers of moisturiser, to counteract the possibility of any redness or sensitivity: this is a top tip for anyone cautious about a reaction or wanting to tread carefully to begin with. Because of it sinking in quickly without leaving any residue, I didn’t have to wait ages or deal with lingering greasiness in between applying skincare layers.
It’s worth noting that adding retinol into your skincare lineup requires patience. While some initial effects may appear in the first few weeks, it can take up to six months to see noticeable results. With the starter serum having a purse-friendly price of £12, I like that unlike some more expensive retinol products, it doesn’t require a major financial outlay for committing to playing the long game.
However, with just under a month’s use, I have found my skin texture appears slightly more even and it’s smoother to the touch, too. My skin has felt dull in recent months, and from using the serum for several weeks, I’ve happily seen some radiance appear – it looks a bit glowier than usual. Plus, I haven’t seen any of the dryness I usually experience with retinols (this can happen as skin cell turnover starts).
While I’ve not seen any irritation, The Inkey List strongly recommends using the starter serum for a minimum of three months before considering a transition to the advanced retinal. According to the brand’s product development team, this “ensures your skin is properly acclimatised and helps achieve the best possible results”.
I’m impressed with the results noted so far, and I’m keen to see if these improvements to the texture and tone of my skin continue with long-term use – and what happens when I switch to the next step, too.
Buy now £12, Spacenk.com
The verdict: The Inkey List starter retinol serum
This £12 starter retinol serum offers great value for money with its ingredients-led, lightweight formula and I saw the beginning of noticeable results after just a few weeks. As someone with sensitive skin, I was also pleased to avoid any irritation. For a budget-friendly retinol that offers a long-term skincare option (with a follow-up product to move onto later), I’d recommend trying The Inkey List’s new launch.
How I tested The Inkey List’s starter retinol serum
I used The Inkey List’s starter retinol serum three times a week for nearly four weeks, looking at the following factors:
Why you can trust IndyBest reviews
Helen Wilson-Beevers is the Content Editor at The Independent with many years experience testing and writing about beauty and skincare. Within this time, she has given her verdict on a plethora of products formulated to support a youthful appearance from budget-friendly brands including The Inkey List, The Ordinary and CeraVe. Taking into account her sensitive skin type, Helen is able to recognise exactly how potent and effective a product is for her skin.
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