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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Environment
Hazel Healy, Brigitte Wear and Karen McVeigh

The hidden cost of your supermarket sea bass

A man surrounded by boxes of fish holds up a fish to the camera. A woman stands behind him wearing an apron and gloves
One of two routes for farmed sea bass into the UK is via markets such as London’s Billingsgate. Photograph: Bloomberg/Getty

At the entrance to the fish market in Joal-Fadiouth, a coastal town in central Senegal, a group of women have set up shop under the shade of a small pavilion. A few years ago, they say, the market would have been bustling with ice-cream sellers, salt vendors and horse-drawn carts delivering freshly caught fish to the women, who would set about sun-drying, salting and sorting the catch into affordable portions for local families to buy.

Today, trade is dead, says Aissatou Wade, one of the remaining small-scale fish processors left in the town. “Without fish [to sell], we have no money to send our children to school, buy food or get help if we fall ill,” she says.

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