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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Emma Beddington

A food revolution: campaigners in Liège want all the region’s produce to be grown locally. Can they do it?

Workers of local cooperatives in their new distribution center, funded by the municipality of Liège.
Made in Liège: workers from the city’s cooperatives show off the locally sourced produce at a distribution centre. Photograph: HJ Hunter/The Observer

This is not a Hollywood story: it’s a Belgian story, for a start. It’s not even certain to end well; that’s a bit up in the air right now. But it’s a story about how things – important things – could be different. How they could, perhaps, be better. It’s a story about Liège, a city whose 19th-century heyday as a coal and steel powerhouse is long gone. Like many ex-coal and steel towns, Liège is poor, with increasing numbers of households living in poverty, but it also has a strong solidarity culture, a diverse population – and the best waffles.

So far, so Belgian. But why are we talking about Liège? Because in 2013, a group of activists who wanted to make food and city life better, greener and fairer, brought 600 people – all with an interest in food production – together. It asked them to imagine what could be different in Liège, within one generation. It’s an interesting question, the fundamental one really: what change can we concretely effect within our lifetimes? What they arrived at was this: “That in 35 years, one generation, the majority of food consumed in the Liège region would be grown locally in the best ecological and social conditions.” That’s a nice, if wordy, aspiration. But the thing is, they’ve tried to make it happen and even – to a degree – have succeeded.

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