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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Entertainment
Luke Buckmaster

The Golden Spurtle review – a cosy celebration of porridge and its champions

An older man standing in a shed doorway with one sleeve rolled up to show a tattoo that reads: WORLD PORRIDGE CHAMPION 10.10.10
‘A real pleasure to watch’: The Golden Spurtle introduces us to champions past, present and aspiring, including 2010 winner Neal Robertson. Photograph: Umbrella

The word “porridge” to me evokes something modest and satisfying: mouthfuls of reliable pleasantness in a terribly volatile world. How lovely that The Golden Spurtle – Constantine Costi’s charming documentary about the world’s annual porridge-making championship in the Scottish village of Carrbridge – has assumed some of the qualities of the dish. It isn’t flashy (and certainly doesn’t scream “must-watch”) but, like a good ol’ fashioned bowl of well-cooked oats, it’s got it where it counts.

This film is a pleasure to watch – with endearing salt-of-the-earth subjects, a lovely ebb and flow, and a tone that feels just right: neither overly serious nor tongue in cheek. Its appeal is not dissimilar to the Australian comedy series Rosehaven: sometimes it’s just nice to escape into a fresh air-filled world with refreshingly low stakes. Even if the competitors, gawd luv ’em, treat the competition very seriously.

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