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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Katie Strick

The Fat Badger, York: a characterful 4-star inn built into the ancient city wall

It all feels a bit too good to be true, to be cheersing pints in the shadow of York’s ancient city walls, bags plonked down next to the four-poster bed upstairs, just two hours after pulling out of King’s Cross.

But this is the beauty of a stay at The Fat Badger, York’s newest pub-with-rooms from British pub group The HRH Group. The four-star fine-dining inn and hotel opened in May after a £1 million renovation that saw it transformed from the former Lamb & Lion inn into a shiny new sister of the much-adored Fat Badger pub in nearby Harrogate.

The interiors might be new but the vibe is is anything but: think dark wooden decor, Yorkshire charm and Grade-II listed buildings dating back to 1840 partially built into the city’s famous old stone walls — fitting for a city known for its cobbled shopping streets, historic attractions and old English pubs with roaring fires.

Oh, and it also has the best beer garden in York, thanks to uninterrupted views of the city’s iconic minster.

Here’s everything you need to know.

Where is it?

Slap bang in the centre of York, on the north-western side of the old city walls (it’s literally built into them) and a 15-minute walk from York train station.

Some of the city’s best pubs, bars and restaurants are within crawling distance and York Minster is a three-minute walk away.

Style

Old English charm, but make it chic. Think dark blue wood-panelled dining rooms, grand chandelier lighting and all the fun cheeky details that Fat Badger guests have come to expect, from Badger-themed artwork to mustard-yellow furnishings.

There’s a rich history. The two grade II-listed buildings the pub is set across are believed to have previously been a house and a shop dating back to 1840.

Which room?

Each of the hotel’s 12 rooms comes with an ensuite and complimentary H2K toiletries, but they all have their own personality, from grand four-poster bedrooms with a mustard-yellow chaise longue at the end of the bed to a loft suite in the eaves.

Expect a low-lit, contemporary vibe, with dark wooden floorboards, brightly-coloured furnishings and fun, characterful artwork on the walls.

Many have views over the city so you can look down at the passers-by on the cobbled streets from bed.

Food & drink

The Fat Badger’s original outpost in Harrogate is AA 2 Rosette-awarded and consistently ranked among the top 10 per cent of TripAdvisors restaurants in the world since opening in 2010 — which paints something of a picture of the dining quality across its kitchens up and down the country.

The York outpost features all the favourites from across the group: top local ales, seasonal gins (plus a secret summer gin garden) and locally-sourced food from steak and landlord ale pie to a red pepper risotto with pine nuts and parmesan.

The signature Badger burger with Swiss cheese and smokey chipotle is naturally popular with guests, as is the crab linguine and pork belly. Try the goats cheese bon bons for starter and order a bottle of the New Zealand Riesling if you like your white wine.

(Fat Badger)

You can eat out in the spacious beer garden if it’s warm enough (it’s first come first served), or settle into the oak-panelled indoor restaurant if not.

For bigger groups, there’s also a private dining snug that’s bookable for up to 12 people and set around one large table - cosy yet vibsey for a Friday night bash.

Staff — particularly the manager Mike Larder — are particularly warm, attentive and down-to-earth, so you’ll be well-looked after.

What to Instagram

York’s historic spire-lined skyline, from your table in the beer garden.

Best for?

Small parties looking for a vibey private dining experience in central York, and weekend city-breakers. York is the birthplace of Nestle and Rowntree’s and has 300 years of chocolate history - there are designated chocolate tours if you fancy learning (and tasting) more.

It’s also home to the world-renowned train museum, the National Railway Museum, one of the UK’s top-rated attractions outside London, plus plenty of historic city tours, from hop-on-hop-off bus tours to city cruises along the River Ouse. Walking the full two-mile circumference of the surviving old city wall (with tea breaks en route) is the perfect way to spend an afternoon and get a feel for the city.

How to get there

Jump on the train at King’s Cross and you can be soaking in one your bathtub overlooking York’s iconic spires in just over two hours. It’s just a 15-minute walk from York station.

When should I go?

All year round, depending on your tolerance to winter in the north — but the most magical time to go is November or December, when thousands flock to the city every year for York’s famous Christmas markets.

The Shambles, a medieval street that’s said to have been the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, looks particularly charming with its overhanging buildings and cobbled streets lit up with Christmas lights.

There’s still time to book for early autumn if you’re planning a walking holiday in the Dales.

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