What makes the perfect pub? Perhaps it is an impossible question to answer — still, last week, the Standard tried. With a hand from Josh Barrie and Mike Daw, I put together the paper's newest list of the 50 best pubs in London.
Despite being far from scientific — I tend to believe science in a pub should mostly be left to the pressure in the pumps — putting it together had taken years of trawling across town for pints here and there, picking up recommendations, hearing out the angry DMs of places missed, refining choices. I don't go to Catford lightly.
As such, the list is quite specific in its aims — it hopes to champion pubs that really are egalitarian, that really do welcome everyone, and don't look to dictate an experience (which is why gastropubs, restaurants in pubs' clothing, will get their own list in the new year).
And still. Pubs number in their thousands, and I've only one liver. Trooper though it is, some places are bound to get overlooked. Below, some of the Standard's team share their favourites across town, some on the big list (those marked with an asterisk), and some not. But either way — ones to cross off someday.
Anna Van Praagh, chief content officer
The Watermans Arms
As a devoted west Londoner any stylish addition to our handful of incredible gastro pubs is a bonus. This riverside gem has unbelievably good food and Adam Hills of Retrouvious helped with the incredibly chic interiors. Five stars.
375 Lonsdale Road, SW13 9PY, watermansarms.co.uk
The Nags Head*
You won’t find a more characterful pub in London. Brilliantly atmospheric and old fashioned Just gorgeous.
53 Kinnerton Street, SW1X 8ED, 020 7235 1135
The Harwood Arms
Their Michelin-star is ridiculously well deserved. The roast beef is “last meal before you die” quality.
Walham Grove, SW6 1QJ, harwoodarms.com
The Pelican*
You’ll find me here in their gorgeous candle-lit pub most Sundays. Best winter Sunday lunch vibes in town. Not much for the kids to eat, but who cares?
45 All Saints Road, W11 1HE, thepelicanw11.com
The Carpenter’s Arms
Super stylish reassuringly expensive Hammersmith pub with great outdoor space. An easy one to name as among my favourites.
91 Black Lion Lane, W6 9BG, carpentersarmsw6.co.uk
Ben Cobb, editor, ES Magazine
The French House*
There would be no soho without this place. If it's not in your top three pubs then are you even a Londoner? No phones, no pints - it lives by its own rules.
49 Dean Street, W1D 5BG, frenchhousesoho.com
Bradley’s Spanish Bar*
Somehow this pub has avoided all the regeneration of Tottenham Court Rd. It's slightly hidden away on a side street, which helps, but it might also be protected by strange mystical forces. Still the best jukebox in town.
44 Hanway Street, W1T 1UTâ, bradleysspanishbar.com
Prince Alfred
The beautiful Victorian snob screen in this Grade II-listed Maida Vale treasure is worth the trip alone. Best enjoyed in summertime as everyone spills out (sometimes literally) on to Formosa Street.
5A Formosa Street, W9 1EE, theprincealfred.com
The Salisbury
Like all great boozers, it hasn't changed in the 30 years I've been going. Inside is a cathedral to shiny brass and all-day benders. Avoid in the evening when coachloads of out-of-town theatre goers ruin the charm.
90 St Martin's Lane, WC2N 4AP, greeneking.co.uk
The Churchill Arms*
This Kensington institution comes alive at this time of year. The Christmas decorations put Trafalgar Square to shame. Go for the lights, stay for the whiskey Macs.
119 Kensington Church Street, W8 7LN, churchillarmskensington.co.uk
Suzannah Ramsdale, lifestyle director
The Antelope
A pub for every want and whim. Cosy in the front, great food in the back (they do 10/10 Sunday roast). There’s a small festooned garden for rare sunny days, and a big room with a screen which sometimes shows sports. Look out for the special booth at the front of the pub, on the left as you walk in, which on Sundays has a group of Irish fiddlers playing a merry tune. No better way to soothe a hangover.
76 Mitcham Road, SW17 9NG, theantelopepub.com
The Fentiman Arms
This pub has a space in my heart for many reasons, not least because I had my wedding reception here. It was at the height of Covid and there were eight of us, but the staff made such a fuss. We drank, danced and forgot all about the pandemic raging outside. It also has an interesting wine list (Bacchus from Wiltshire! Oh my!) and a solid beer garden.
64 Fentiman Road, SW8 1LN, thefentimanarms.co.uk
Abha Shah, deputy shopping editor
The Nelsons
I've never once had a bad time at this LGBTIQA+-friendly boozer. Come for the lethal cocktails, stay for the drag night. And don't leave without adding your own willy doddle to the papered walls. What a pub!
32 Horatio Street, E2 7SB, thenelsonspub.com
Nick Clark, deputy culture editor
Prince Albert
This welcoming pub has a lovely, light, airy feel and is perfect to rest aching limbs after a brisk stroll around nearby Battersea Park.
85 Albert Bridge Road, SW11 4PF, theprincealbertbattersea.co.uk
The Bobbin
Tucked away in the residential streets of Clapham Old Town, this is an intimate pub with a communal feel, as attested by the regulars who gather every Friday night.
1-3 Lillieshall Road, SW4 0LN, thebobbinclapham.com
The Windsor Castle
A glorious old school pub where patrons have to duck aged timber beams to move between rooms. Very Alice in Wonderland.
114 Campden Hill Road, W8 7AR, thewindsorcastlekensington.co.uk
The Trafalgar Tavern*
This Greenwich pub is in an iconic London location, looking out over the Thames and revelling in the local maritime history.
Park Row, SE10 9NW, trafalgartavern.co.ukâ
The Elephant and Castle
A journo’s pub this one and a real winter warmer too. Condensation on the bay windows, Evening Standard front pages on the wall. Bliss.
40 Holland Street, W8 4LT, nicholsonspubs.co.uk
Victoria Moss, fashion director
The Heathcote & Star
My favourite pubs are generally the ones which I can roll home from. The Heathcote & Star, on the Leyton/Leytonstone boarder is my local and always cheers me up. I even hosted my daughter’s five-year-old birthday party in the room upstairs (surely an essential for small kid’s parties is a fully stocked bar?). Obviously it does a very good Sunday roast, but equally delicious is the normal service food by Krapow — very moreish Thai street food. In summer there’s a giant garden, in winter leather Chesterfield sofas by a fire. What more could you want?
344 Grove Green Road, E11 4EA, heathcoteandstar.co.uk
Katie Strick, senior feature writer and editor
The Hope
I tend to try to avoid pubs I associated with bad dates, but for The Hope I’ll always make an exception. It’s the location on the corner of Wandsworth Common that draws me – and the dogs. It feels like a wilder common than most; one for the locals, not the tourists – and The Hope feels like the same thing in pub form. You can wear your muddy boots here in the winter or rock up with your tennis racket in the summer and feel like you’ve come home. Come for 180-degree sun terrace in the summer and mugs of hot cider in the chillier months. Stay for the Monday night quiz, popular with big groups.
1 Bellevue Road, SW17 7EG, thehopepub.co.uk
The White Cross
If Richmond is the happiest place to live in Great Britain, according to Rightmove, The White Cross is surely the happiest place to drink – if, like me, your judge of a good pub is good views, good vibes and the fact that you can still guarantee a good time even if you don’t get a table. Indeed, I’ve spent many a balmy summer’s afternoon there sitting on those cute little cushions they leave on the pavement overlooking the river and rowing boats. In fact, I’d probably choose them over a table. On a particularly tropical July day a few summers ago, a friend even took a quick dip in the river mid-pint. You can’t do that at the Coach and Horses.
Riverside House, Water Lane, TW9 1NR, thewhitecrossrichmond.com
Jessica Landon, deputy art director, ES Magazine
The Kenton Arms
Great ales on tap. A very friendly pub with good atmosphere. You feel as though you are sitting in a friends front room.
38 Kenton Road, E9 5BA, kentonpub.co.uk
The Elderfield
An absolute favourite for anyone who lives in the area. A brilliant meeting point for locals. A real hub. Good wine. The renowned landlady Phyllis has been running it well for about 20 years while Clapton has transformed around her.
57 Elderfield Road, E5 0LF, @the_elderfield_pub
The Lord Napier
This pub is on many floors so you will always find a table however busy it is. Family friendly. A great pub to go to with all the family.
25 White Post Lane, E9 5ER, lordnapierstar.co.uk
The Princess of Wales
A lovely pub by the canal with lots of outside seating. Lovely in summer and cosy in the winter. Does a brilliant Sunday roast for all the family and dog walkers on their way to the marshes.
146 Lea Bridge Road, E5 9RB, princessofwalesclapton.co.uk
The Spurstowe Arms
One of only a handful of vegan pubs in London. But as a non-vegan – even I love the food and drinks and I don’t care that it doesn’t contain meat as it is still delicious.
68 Greenwood Road, E8 1AB, spurstowearms.com
Katrina Mirpuri, senior social features editor
The Hawley Arms
Magnet to London’s remaining Indie, trilby wearing, rock and roll loving scene. Used to be Amy Winehouse’s local. Lock-ins usually involve dancing on tables to Sixties rock and roll.
2 Castlehaven Road, NW1 8QU, thehawleyarms.co.uk
Prince Arthur
Locals pub tucked away from the chaos of Shoreditch. Lovely selection of cask ale.
49 Brunswick Place, N1 6EB, theprincearthurpub.co.uk
Melanie McDonagh, columnist and arts critic
Williams Ale and Cider House
It’s quiet, with very decent pub food (Scotch egg et al), friendly service and good for anyone having a drink and a bite alone.