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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Bethan McKernan in Kibbutz Einat

The bread of ancient Israel is baked again for modern tables

Ben Yehuda, 36, in his Kibbutz Einat bakery.
Ben Yehuda in his Kibbutz bakery. Photograph: Quique Kierszenbaum/The Observer

On the wall of Hagai Ben Yehuda’s bakery on a kibbutz near Petah Tikva hangs a black-and-white photograph of Miriam and Moshe Rozental, who came to Ottoman-era Palestine from Poland in 1870.

Moshe was a baker: over the years, his descendants grew the family business into one of Israel’s largest bread companies. Five generations later, Ben Yehuda is taking his relatives’ legacy in a new direction, breathing fresh life into ancient bread-making traditions by reviving local varieties of wheat from thousands of years ago.

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