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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tim Adams

The big picture: Bruno Barbey captures life on the road in 1960s Palermo

Palermo, Sicily, 1963.
Palermo, Sicily, 1963.
Photograph: Bruno Barbey/Magnum Photos

Bruno Barbey chanced upon this family defying gravity on their dad’s scooter in Palermo in 1963. The French-Moroccan photographer had been travelling in Italy for a couple of years by then, restless for exactly this kind of image, with its seductive mix of humour and authenticity. Has there ever been a better articulation of contrasting roles in the patriarchal family? Father sitting comfortably in his jacket and cap and smiling for the camera, while behind him his possibly pregnant wife sees trouble ahead, as she and their three kids and their big checked bag compete for precarious discomfort.

Barbey, then 22, had gone to Italy to try to find pictures that captured “a national spirit” as the country sought to rediscover the dolce vita in cities still recovering from war. He travelled in an old VW van and in Palermo in particular he located scenes that might have been choreographed for the working-class heroes of the Italian neorealist films, the self-absorbed dreamers of Fellini and Visconti (The Leopard, the latter’s Hollywood epic set in Sicily was released in the same year). Barbey’s camera with its wide angle lens picked up the detail of vigorous crowd scenes among street children and barflies and religious processions. His book, The Italians, now republished, is a time capsule of that already disappearing black-and-white world of priests and mafiosi and nightclub girls and nuns.

For Barbey, the series was also a calling card that granted him membership of the Magnum picture agency, of which he was a headline act right up to his death in 2020. “Most of the time I take photographs to document for posterity traditions and cultures rapidly vanishing,” he said of his globetrotting career. That principle was first established in the backstreets of the Italian south.

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