Instead of a sprinkle of shy poppy seeds hiding in a fluffy lemon loaf, this recipe boasts dramatic layers. It's inspired by a famous poppy seed paste found in many Eastern European desserts I grew up with. This paste, also called mohn, is a mixture of poppy seeds, sugar, and a binder like milk or egg. It's used for kolaches, babkas, hamantaschen, crescent rolls — the options are endless. So why not layer it in a tender lemon quick bread? (On that note: Yes, this is one of those situations where quick bread essentially means cake — but don't let that stop you from enjoying it for breakfast.)
Make sure to taste the poppy seeds before using them. The ones I used for my first test were rancid, and I didn't realize that until I tasted the baked loaf. Check the production date to make sure the poppy seeds are as fresh as can be. Because this recipe uses a large quantity, see if you can find poppy seeds in a bulk package, like on Nuts.com. To achieve the lemoniest flavor, don't skip massaging the lemon zest into the sugar. Lemon peel contains a fragrant, aromatic oil, much more complex than lemon juice, and the abrasive texture of the sugar helps draw out all that flavor. The best way you'll get a bright yellow quick bread without food coloring is organic, pasture-raised eggs — they'll bring a lemony yellow hue. — Carolina Gelen
