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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Abbas Asaria

‘The beauty of the useless’: Spain’s super-thin restaurant napkins are throwaway art treasures

A cafe table with an orange tablecloth, napkins and condiments on top, outdoors on a cobblestone street
Wafer-thin … the all-important, yet highly ineffectual, servilletas. Photograph: C Romance/Getty Images

If you have ever eaten a meal in a bar, cafe or restaurant in Spain and grabbed a napkin from the ubiquitous small metal dispensers, you will be familiar with the most intriguing feature of the wafer-thin servilletas: how utterly functionally useless they are.

Don’t bother using them to mop up spilled liquid, as they are less likely to soak up the spillage than protect it with an impermeable barrier. Never make the mistake of blowing your nose in them when you have a cold or a hay fever attack: they’ll just spread the mess to your hands. Their papery texture – originally meant to keep your hands clean while picking up oily snacks – has somehow endured despite their most common purpose being to clean your fingers and lips. For this, they are far from effective, and you end up flying through half a dozen for every croqueta.

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