
Salt, fat, acid, heat. These are, according to American chef Samin Nosrat, the four elements that good cooking revolves around. They could just as easily be the ingredients of great modern television: the cynical tang of salt on the edge of lachrymosity, the insulating human warmth of fat, acid’s harsh repudiation of sentiment, and heat, the lit fire of writing and performances that makes the mouth water. The Bear, Disney+’s much-garlanded series about a Chicago restaurant, has all these constituents – and, returning for its second series, sizzles in the skillet.
The dysfunctional team behind The Original Beef of Chicagoland – Carmy Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), cousin Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach) and sous chef Sydney (Ayo Edebiri) – are back in business. Their new restaurant, The Bear, is, permits pending, launching in a few months, meaning they’re in a race against time to train their brigade and get the place ready to transition to haute cuisine. “This is a terrible idea,” comes Sydney’s verdict, when the launch date is circled on a calendar. But with money running tight, options are even scarcer.