Get all your news in one place.

100’s of premium titles.
One app.

Start reading

Get all your news in one place.

100’s of premium titles. One news app.

Start reading

The Independent UK

Travel

Annabel Grossman

The Agora Hotel, Cyprus review

Agora Cyprus Em Aleks

Support truly
independent journalism

Support Now

This stylish adults-only hideaway in the sleepy village of Pano Lefkara focuses on relaxation, reconnection and living well, all among beautiful hills that can be explored by bike or on foot

Location

Pano Lefkara is a hilltop village in Cyprus known for silver and lace-making. The village is popular with tourists who usually visit for a day trip, but it’s well worth spending a few days here. Just a 30-minute drive into the hills from Larnaca airport (or an hour from Nicosia), the Agora Hotel offers an ideal base to explore the town and local area. You’ll find pretty stone-built houses with blue doors, a 14th-century church and plenty of traditional shops where locals will welcome you in to watch traditional lace-making over strong Cypriot coffee. One of the reasons the Agora’s owners, Aleksander Eng and Emilie Green Novel, chose to build their hotel in Lefkara is due to the proximity of the Cyprus mountains, which offer excellent – and seemingly almost undiscovered – options for cycling: steep mountain roads, but also quiet pine forests and winding trails up hills and through olive groves.

The vibe

There are areas throughout the hotel where guests can drink, work and mingle (The Agora Hotel)

There’s more than a nod to Soho House here – the Agora is the sort of boutique hotel that attracts ‘creative’ types. Co-working is encouraged in the library, and several tables surround the pool where guests can mingle over cocktails or coffee. Owners Aleks and Em conceived the hotel as a place to meet and connect with other like-minded travellers looking for an escape from the stresses and demands of everyday life, and as a getaway for couples to spend quality time together. So although the interiors are achingly chic and Instagrammable, this isn’t a place you’ll have to jostle teenage TikTokers for a spot by the pool or shield yourself from becoming background to an Instagram story; day visitors aren’t allowed in for photos, and excessive or intrusive photo and video-taking is discouraged.

The vibe is laid-back; think days spent relaxing by the pool, playing backgammon and sampling cocktails. There are spaces for working, including a beautifully decorated bar and library; the Agora welcomes digital nomads and workcations. The decor is carefully selected and stylish. The orange striped furniture around the pool is complemented by pale greens, pinks and burnt oranges, with furnishings picked out personally by Aleks and Em from their extensive travels.

Service

The sometimes scatty restaurant and bar service is more than made up for with friendly staff. It may have taken a couple of tries to get cocktails right, but the hotel staff were determined to ensure our experience was pleasant and relaxing. Guests will find recommendations for eating and drinking in Lefkara in their room, but staff are more than happy to share their local knowledge and arrange reservations.

Bed and bath

Bedrooms are airy and stylish (The Agora Hotel)

The 18 light-filled rooms are simply and tastefully decorated with muted tones, wooden floors, natural materials and velvet furnishings. All bathrooms have a shower with FRAMA toiletries, and the larger suites have a deep freestanding tub in the bedroom separated by a wicker screen. The courtyard-style of the hotel means that it can be noisy at night when music from the restaurant drifts up to the rooms, but this does not go on late.

Food and drink

The restaurant is where all meals are served, with snacks available throughout the day. The food is good quality if somewhat unimaginative. Dinner options include sea bream, mushroom risotto and ribeye steak, while salads, pizzas and sandwiches are available for lunch. The wine list is excellent, with some local options. Breakfast features classics such as avocado toast, ricotta pancakes, eggs Benedict and porridge, along with smoothies, healthy shots, and mimosas.

The bar serves excellent cocktails, including martinis, negronis and old fashioneds (The Agora Hotel)

Facilities

The pool in the centre of the hotel may be small but it’s a pleasant temperature (heated, but not too warm) and large enough for a pleasant dip. Treatments at the GreenHouse spa include massages and reflexology, and Em leads yoga classes on the roof every morning (one-to-one sessions are also available). The Agora frequently hosts wellness and craft workshops, as well as trivia and film nights.

There are various nearby hikes through the mountains, with beautiful trails with stunning views across forests, olive groves and hilltops. Aleks will also personally take cyclists up into the mountains to explore bike routes, or will share his extensive knowledge of the local cycling area.

Disability access

The main areas of the hotel, including the lounge, restaurant, and study, are accessible. There is one accessible room on the ground floor of the hotel.