Breakfast culture in Britain is one of its finest culinary assets. A fry up, or full English, is world famous, and world beating when done properly. The porky combination of fine rashers of bacon, a nice meaty sausage (or two), black pudding and eggs any which way – though fried or scrambled reign here – is hard to beat, more so when garlic-hewn mushrooms and a soft tomato are brought into play. Beans? Unnecessary, really, but each to their own.
But there are other elements in the repertoire which deserve a renaissance: kedgeree was once breakfast fare and for all its simplicity (rice, smoked haddock, cream, curry powder) and it is here where poached eggs are preferable. And a word too for devilled kidneys – lamb kidneys in a spicy and umami-laden sauce – which make for a glorious start to the day. As does a rich porridge, another one of our triumphs. Just skip the pancakes.
