Tendril, 5 Princes Street, London W1B 2LQ. Lunch discovery menu £35, dinner £45, à la carte £5.50-£19, wines from £33
In the heart of red-meat Mayfair, there’s a hotbed of vegetable-love. To the right, in a small parade, there’s Neat Burger, knocking out pea protein and corn-based patties, dyed what they think are the right colours by the addition of beetroot and turmeric. To the left is the Dutch-born Avocado Show. Granted, there are outbreaks of animal along the way, but the menu is mostly vegetable-led, that vegetable being the worryingly thirsty avocado. They will even make you a burger in which the bun has been substituted for two halves of an avocado. On the one hand I should try it before passing comment. On the other, don’t make me.
