Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

Taking a seat at the table: meet David Ellis, our new restaurant critic

Occasionally I am asked “what’s next?” by friends. At times it is well-meaning, at others withering. “What about another paper?” they ask. “Or something more serious? Surely you can’t eke out another 400 words on martinis?”  

And well, look — this paper may have driven me mad over the years, but I’ve become enormously fond of it. I like its history. I like that Quentin Crewe — at one point our helicopter correspondent (journalism: never what it used to be) — is credited with inventing the modern restaurant review, preferring style and social commentary over perceptively identifying chicken from beef.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.