The tabi shoe, a divisive style which features a cloven hoof-like split, has its origins in 15th-century Japan. In 1988, fashion designer Martin Margiela reimagined the split-toe silhouette for a high-fashion boot for his brand’s inaugural runway collection. While the style became synonymous with Margiela, because of its historic origins, it could not be legally or culturally copyrighted by a single fashion house.
In my research on luxury fashion influencers and Instagram, I examine how fashion meanings are produced through repeated images, performances and visual codes. As such, I’m interested in the way the split-toe tabi has moved from esoteric marker of good taste (and deep pockets) to mainstream trend.
