The next time you have a “what to eat for dinner?” emergency, reach for a jar of shop-bought tom yum paste. It brings a distinct sweet, sour and spicy profile to anything it touches, and I’ve used it to rescue meals for the best part of my adult life. You can buy it in large supermarkets, online or at Asian food stores. Combined with stock, you can easily create a speedy take on Thai tom yum soup, or toss it with roast sweet potatoes for caramelised wedges bursting with heat and umami.