Before I moved out to the country, I lived not far from Islington High Street, but far enough away for it to be a different world with no shops in a place called Old Street, where buildings – back then – were still empty, undiscovered places of artistic potential with pigeons as tenants. My children can’t wean themselves off their childhood hairdresser, so when we go back I’m one of those people who say, ‘This was all derelict buildings back in my day,’ and remember cheeky nights out in a Triumph Herald (I’m not that old, it was a classic even then), back when you could still park in the street without penalty.
Marks & Spencer on Moorgate was a rare retail outlet which I’d trudge to, with my pram, incongruous in a tide of city suits. I’m thinking of all this because I’ve just been back, sneaking into the coolness of Paul A Young’s shop in Camden Passage on a very hot day, to ask for one of his perfect pecan brownies, £4.50, chopped up into four to share between me, the bambine and the hairdresser. I have in my bag a bar of M&S Single Origin Ecuadorian 75% £2/100g, because I cannot travel without my own stash of chocolate. I’ve chosen 75% because of the heat and it doesn’t disappoint. This bar is both creamily smooth and punchy, and worth visiting M&S for.
Back home I go down the percentages to 43%, but stay with Ecuadorian beans for Duffy’s Milk Corazon, £5.65/60g. Almost as low as Duffy goes (there is a 40%), this is a super-accessible craft milk studded with cocoa nibs and smoked salt. A very fine bar that few could find fault with.
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