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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
National
Rachel Stevenson

Surf, scones… but no homes: the battle for the soul of Cornwall

The picture postcard beauty of St Ives distracts from Cornwall’s real problems and opportunities.
The picture postcard beauty of St Ives distracts from Cornwall’s real problems and opportunities. Photograph: Andrew Michael/Getty Images/iStockphoto

It’s the last day of free parking at Porthtowan beach on Cornwall’s wild Atlantic coast before the summer charging season begins. Plenty of people are making the most of the sunny but cold day. The steep hills surrounding the cove are bright yellow with gorse in full bloom, framing the brilliant turquoise sea against the cobalt sky.

The wind is up, and white-peaked waves roar on to the sand and cliffs. There are some holidaymakers around, with children bundled up in hats and gloves along with buckets and spades – but most are locals enjoying this quieter time before the tourist season kicks off once again.

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