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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Grace Dent

Sune, London E2: ‘Elbow anyone silly enough to think this is for sharing’ – restaurant review

Sune, London, E2: ‘Some amazing destination cooking’.
Sune, London E2: ‘Some amazing destination cooking.’ Photograph: Emma Guscott/The Guardian

Sune, pronounced “sooner”, is a cool new restaurant at the bottom end of established foodie hotspot Broadway Market in east London. I adore the word “foodie”, because it makes foodies themselves shudder, but how else to describe an area so knee-deep in artisan viennoiserie, so sodden with sourdough pizza, and where you’re never more than 20m from an earnest soul pickling grusas capers? Eating out is already a tactical game round these parts, and anywhere that gets hyped is instantly oversubscribed. Calling up Max Rocha’s nearby Cafe Cecilia to enquire about the possibility of a last-minute table, for example, feels a bit like phoning the Tower of London to ask if you can pop by and try on the crowns. Risible.

And now here’s Sune, which opens just a few evenings a week, by Honey Spencer and Charlie Sims, who have been called a “hospitality power couple”, which sounds terribly intimidating, though in all fairness they are absolutely not. In fact, they’re delightful, which is one reason, on the wettest of Wednesday evenings and only a few weeks in, the place was mobbed.

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