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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle

Sukhumvit speakeasy

(Photos: Somchai Poomlard)

Located on the underground level of The Coach Hotel Sukhumvit 14 Bangkok and behind wrought iron doors, Abandoned Mansion Bangkok is a new speakeasy inspired by America's Prohibition and notorious gangsters associated with the ban on alcohol period.

As you descend the red-carpeted stairs to lower ground, you'll be impressed by a cavernous space dripping with a sense of opulence through classy decor in gold, copper and blue throughout the venue. Between the stairs and elevators, there's a dressing corner where you can borrow costumes and props to channel your inner Bonnie or Clyde on social media. Above the main marble bar is a balcony for DJs and live bands while a cigar room is on the mezzanine level and overlooks the entire space.

After a long day, plop yourself down on a plush sofa or a velvet chair for an intimate night of unwinding (and imbibing). Don't drink on an empty stomach so choose from 14 dishes from a menu that comes in the form of an old-timey newspaper. The drink selection makes up 90% of the menu, obviously, but I'll get to that later.

While Sasin "chef Sun" Sawangsri describes Abandoned Mansion's culinary repertoire as "comfort modern", I think describing it as a mix of Italian and American inspirations with a sprinkle of Asian influence would be more precise. Having worked at notable hotel restaurants in Bangkok before joining Compass Hospitality as cluster executive chef, he certainly shows a level of finesse on the plates.

Start the night with Oyster (B480 for six pieces) which is stylishly served on a two-tier tray. Six plump and chilled Fine De Claire oysters (No.3) come with zesty mignonette, spicy Thai dip and lime wedges for your pairing pleasure. Another starter for sharing is Bruschetta (B380) topped with sweet Argentinian red prawn and mango salsa, is a savoury and refreshing combo but I feel the wasabi gets lost in the mix.

You'll eat the Octopus salad (B450) with your eyes and camera first, thanks to its beautiful combination. Small scoops of compressed watermelon burst with refreshing sweetness and they go great with other milder elements such as cucumber and edible flowers. Add a dollop of yoghurt on an octopus piece for the optimum experience. Another salad I would recommend is the Buffalo mozzarella (B460) served on a bed of roasted beetroot and dressed with edamame and mint pesto. Mozzarella is fresh and mild while beetroot lends some meatiness minus the guilt.

Open wide for The Godfather Wagyu Burger (B580) which features a thick and succulent patty, gooey Cheddar and bacon strips between housemade charcoal buns. It may strain your jaws a little but shouldn't disappoint. "Scarface" Bolognese toast (B350) may look like omurice but it's a twist on pizza, resulting in Bolognese sauce and mozzarella on a big piece of crunchy oval toast. The tomato salsa complements the rich and gooeyness of the main attraction.

The Godfather Wagyu Burger.
Octopus salad.
Buffalo mozzarella.

The American gangster theme continues with signature drinks. Mixologist Sompong "Jame" Saydaung is responsible for creating namesake signature cocktails inspired by notorious criminals from the Prohibition era. He has consulted for various cafes and bars in Amphawa and Pattaya and hosted many bartending and barista workshops.

"John Dillinger" (B420) fuses North American whisky with Benedictine D.O.M. and red vermouth reduction, representing the serial bank robber through smooth and strong sips. Served in a cigar box with homemade popcorn, which refers to how Dillinger met his demise. Served in a rose-shaped glass, "Baby Face Nelson" (B430) is a playful interpretation of the moniker of bank robber Lester Joseph Gillis, who was a close associate of Dillinger. Vodka, rose, vanilla, raspberry reduction and white chocolate deceptively blend into fruity and sweet sips. "Al Capone" (B430) mixes straight bourbon fat-washed with salami, Italian bitter and Drambuie. A piece of burned salami on the top is of course an on-the-nose reference to his Italian root. "Bonnie and Clyde" (B430) contains two gins as an homage to the criminal couple. American dry gin, Moscato grape, lemon and homemade violet bitters collude into alluring and refreshing sips.

To enhance the atmosphere, live bands entertain you daily from 8pm, featuring R&B, jazz and pop. Abandoned Mansion succeeds in providing a vibe that feels intimate yet special enough to turn a night with friends into an occasion. It is a short walk from BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit for non-drivers. Visit fb.com/abandonedmansionbangkok.

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