Sugarcane London, 517 Wandsworth Road, London SW8 4PA (020 7498 8758). Starters £4-£6, mains £8.50-£10, platters for two £30, desserts £5.50, wines from £20
Sugarcane London is a small, tidy Caribbean café on the Wandsworth Road serving, among other things, very good jerk chicken. The skin is crisped and blackened and has a sweet, aromatic warmth from an enthusiastic assault by a seasoning mix heavy with the wonder that is allspice. This is a restaurant review, so obviously we care about these things; the food matters and it will get its moment.
