On Japan's western frontier, the small island of Yonaguni, devoid of even a corner store, offers nature lovers a unique experience: diving with hammerhead sharks and observing miniature horses grazing on hillsides.
However, this tranquil scene is increasingly juxtaposed with a growing military presence. Radar sites now dot the wooded mountain ranges, and Camp Yonaguni, a Japanese Ground Self-Defense Force base, occupies land once used as a cattle station.
