Chef Jack Zideluns has fond memories of Italian family gatherings centred on food and conversation.
Everyone helped themselves to shared dishes, family recipes were passed on to the next generation, and no one left hungry.
He learnt a lot about food and cooking from his beloved Nonna.
Zideluns went on to work for Merivale, Society and the Boathouse Group, and was junior sous chef at London's Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay.
As head chef at new Hunter Valley restaurant and bar, Lucia Roche Estate, Zideluns is taking the opportunity to share his personal food story, one plate at a time.
His approach to Lucia's menu was simple: fresh, local ingredients and generous servings placed in the middle of the table, designed to be passed around.
"That's a big part of what I want Lucia to feel like. The food is considered, but it isn't precious," he said.
"We have access to great produce here in the Hunter, a stone-fired oven at the heart of the kitchen, and some incredible wine on our doorstep, so there's plenty to work with."
Lucia Roche Estate, located at the former Goldfish Bar & Restaurant, is open for lunch, dinner and drinks, and offers diners a flexible all-day menu. You can pop in for an afternoon bite, a long lunch or an evening meal, or simply grab a seat at the bar and order a drink.
Food & Wine visited on a warm and sunny spring day; a glorious time of year to be in the Hunter Valley.
There are so many quality places to eat and drink in the Hunter Valley. Why choose Lucia Roche Estate? To start with, it's easy to get to, and easy to find: smack bang in the middle of Pokolbin with plenty of parking.
The view from the terrace across the grassy Roche Estate amphitheatre to the vines and dam, so often interrupted by a concert stage and thousands of music fans, is lovely.
So, too, is the aesthetic inside Lucia Roche Estate. Rich and luxe, there are splashes of olive, chocolate brown, burgundy and mustard.
"With Lucia, we wanted the space to feel warm, timeless, full of personality - polished, but not overly formal," Roche Group senior designer Emily Sandford said.
"There's a subtle old-world influence throughout the interiors, from the burgundy tones, the curved banquettes to the vintage-inspired seating, artwork, and detailing.
"The bar was always meant to be the heart of the room, with each dining space feeling intimate in its own way. Really, we wanted it to feel established, like it already had history - the kind of place with character, warmth and familiarity that make people keep coming back to."
And Lucia's menu? It is tailor-made for long, lazy lunches with friends.
The bar takes pride of place in the restaurant, and it's not long before we are offered a Sicilian Sunset (tequila, prosecco, blood orange and Aperol), a refreshing apple mojito mocktail, and a Lucia Lager brewed exclusively for Lucia Roche Estate by Modus Operandi.
The wine list is exclusively Hunter Valley produced, most sourced from estates within five and 10 minutes of the venue.
We are offered drops from the likes of Audrey Wilkinson, Tyrrell's, Usher Tinkler, Silkman, Mercer, De Iuliis, Glandore, Thomas, First Creek, McLeish, The Little Wine Company, Vinden, M&J Becker, Briar Ridge, Horner, Oakvale and Elbourne Estate throughout the afternoon.
There are plenty of signature and classic cocktails to choose from, too.
Venue manager and licensee John Samway is a WSET Level 3 wine professional with experience across restaurants, hotels, cellar doors and wineries. He has previously worked at Manly Pavilion, The Gantry at Pier One Sydney Harbour, Spicers Guesthouse, Mount Ashby Estate and various Hunter Valley wineries.
"We want Lucia to be somewhere people can gather and settle in. There's no rush to order or to leave," he said.
"It should feel special enough that you want to make a plan to come here, but relaxed enough that you can spend a few hours over good food and wine.
"The Hunter Valley already gives people plenty of reasons to spend time here, and we wanted to create another place people genuinely want to come back to."
Samway is in charge of the wine and broader beverage offering, while operations manager Sam Harman, a qualified chef with more than 20 years in hospitality, oversees the broader operation.
"Lucia Roche Estate is all about relaxed and casual but elevated dining. We want you to gather, share and linger," Samway said.
"It's great for parties and groups, and the full menu is available all day from 11.30am to 9.30pm."
In addition to stone-fired pizzas and pasta, there are plenty of tasty Italian-inspired share plates to choose from, including burrata with romesco sauce; freshly baked pizza dough "pillow bread"; whipped ricotta with lemon zest and thyme; pork and fennel meatballs; cured pork loin, thinly sliced, with chilli and fennel; and "nduja" Calabrian spreadable sausage with chilli and aromatic spices.
The wild mushroom arancini with parmigiano reggiano and aioli was a winner at our table.
Larger share plates include the beef cheek with cauliflower puree, sauteed spinach, salsa verde and truffle oil; market fish of the day, pan-fried, with lemon, chive, beurre blanc and salmon roe; and slow-roasted half duck with red wine jus and vincotto.
Traditional and modern Napoli-style stone-fired pizzas are available to order, and a range of desserts including baked chocolate tart with fresh double cream, sea salt and olive oil, gelato and, of course, tiramisu.
