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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Stuart Heritage

Spam is back! Chefs on their favourite recipes from katsu curry to Spam fries with cheesy kimchi sauce

Spam bành mì … ‘One of the world’s elite sandwiches’.
‘One of the world’s elite sandwiches’ … Spam bành mì. Photograph: SPAM

There is at least one hint of a silver lining to the cost of living crisis. That’s right, Spam is back. According to Waitrose, sales are up 36% this year, as consumers turn their backs on more expensive fresh meat.

But Spam – tinned cooked pork – need not be a compromise. Thanks to American GIs, who introduced it during the second world war to the Asia-Pacific nations, the product has become a mainstay of their cuisine. During the festival of Chuseok, South Korean supermarkets brim with elaborate Spam gift sets. In 2014, Burger King in Japan introduced a Spam and cheese burger. The biggest consumers of Spam globally are the people of the tiny Pacific island of Guam; not only do they each eat on average 16 tins a year, but Spam produces a special variety just for islanders.

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