The gentle crashing of waves lapping up metres from my bed is what woke me. Through the cracks of wooden cabin walls, I could see a deep red glow emerging in the distance. As I stepped outside moments later, I was hit by the warm rays of sunrise over the Red Sea and the soothing sounds of the morning. For the first time in a while, I felt completely alone.
It sometimes feels impossible to truly get off the beaten path. To experience the excitement those first beach dwellers may have felt decades before the hotel chains, crowds of tourists, and beachfront bars came rolling in.
However, I was on the outskirts of Nuweiba, one of a scattering of camp locations in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula that still promise an authentic taste of beach life.
A far cry from the exciting chaos of Cairo and the luxury resorts of Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada, the beach camps dotted along the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba promise the ultimate escape. These rustic settings, framed by golden mountains, are sold on the promise of simplicity – a no-frills outdoor escape where you have all the time in the world to snorkel, read a book and marvel at everything but your phone.
Beach camps in Sinai hark back to an easier, more laid-back way of life. Inspired by the Bedouin communities who have sat around fires on the oceanfront for aeons, they allow guests to disconnect and embrace the rhythms of life where the desert meets the sea.
While you’re largely left to your own devices, most camps also add just enough comfort to make your stay relatively stress-free. Many provide basic amenities like toilets, showers, simple wooden cabins, hammocks and a campfire. Electricity isn’t always guaranteed, but a warm dinner and simple breakfast are usually included, prepared by welcoming host families.
As for everything else, you’ll have to bring it with you. So pack a deck of cards and a speaker, and don’t forget the mosquito repellent. Here are some of the best rustic getaways of the South Sinai Peninsula.
Nuweiba
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Just over an hour’s drive from the beach town of Dahab lies Nuweiba, a small Sinai trade hub with frequent ferries to Jordan.
The real magic lies just a few miles north of the main town. Nuweiba is a popular weekend getaway for those staying in Dahab or Sharm el-Sheikh, and here on the rural coastline, it’s all about switching off.
There are dozens of beach camps dotted along the oceanfront, steps away from untouched coral reefs and turquoise waters. Most operate as restaurants, meaning you can also enjoy them as a day trip or overnight stay. Regardless of what you choose, you’re almost guaranteed seclusion.
And there are plenty of camps to choose from, like KumKum and La Commune, which both offer simple bohemian cabins. There are also air-conditioned huts and even en suites along the sandy shore, if you’re after something more developed.
How to get there: Two-hour drive from Sharm el-Sheikh, either by coach, minibus or rental car.
Ras Mohammed National Park
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Just south of Sharm el-Sheikh, Ras Mohammed National Park is a must-do for those looking for a break from resort life. The park is a breathtaking day trip, famed for giant walls of coral reef that plunge into the ocean’s depths, sandy dunes, and vast golden plains. And while you’re guaranteed to have a jam-packed day, it’s even better to stay overnight.
Bedawi Eco Camping is one of several camps that sit along the water’s edge, offering traditional Bedouin tents with comfortable beds and blankets already set up when you arrive. A large shady communal area and lunch and dinner options are provided for guests.
Ask the local hosts about the best snorkelling spots, and spend the day dipping in and out of warm Red Sea waters.
How to get there: Less than 30 minutes south of Sharm el-Sheikh by car
Ras Abu Galum
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For adventurers, Ras Abu Galum is best accessed by an impressive coastal hike that takes around an hour from Egypt’s famed Blue Hole. You’ll need to pay the $10 (£7.70) entry fee to the site before following the dusty, well-trodden path along the oceanfront toward the beach camps. This hike is ideal during the cooler months, but it’s important to bring plenty of water (there’s nothing available along the way). Alternatively, you can take a 20-minute boat ride that goes straight to the camps.
Abu Galum doesn’t offer many amenities or phone reception, but the camps on the shorefront provide everything, from food and water to snorkelling masks. Makany Makanak Camp is one of the popular options, boasting simple cabins and a collection of musicians and yogis staying as guests.
How to get there: A hike or boat trip from the Blue Hole
Blue Lagoon
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If Abu Galum isn’t far enough, you can also keep going to Blue Lagoon, one of Egypt’s most famous kiteboarding and windsurfing getaways. If you’re looking for a place full of adventurers and beach bums, this is probably the place for you. Located 10 miles north of Dahab, the Blue Lagoon is a secluded turquoise lagoon with still waters and powerful winds that offer the perfect adventure sport location.
You might brush shoulders with elite kiteboarders who have travelled from all over the world to explore Egypt’s waters. For those wanting to give kitesurfing a go, try El Omda Kite Camp or Blue Lagoon Island Camp, which provide the best location on the lagoon’s edge and open-wall huts for romantic getaways.
There are also plenty of people who are just there to switch off and watch the water activities from the shore. Gabila Glamping is a cosy option for those who like sleeping in a tent and listening to the gentle ocean water outside.
How to get there: 10-minute taxi ride from Abu Galoum
Nabq
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Nabq is a protected area known for its mangrove forests and rich wildlife, located just north of Sharm el-Sheikh. Like other destinations on this list, this gorgeous area attracts visitors due to its excellent mix of natural landscapes and secluded feel.
The tranquillity of Nabq Protected Area is perfect for those seeking a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Think raw nature, impressive sunrises, and an environmentally friendly outdoor feel.
While Nabq can be enjoyed as a day trip, Buckthorn Adventure Camp and Masood Ecological Camp are popular options for those looking to stay the night and switch off.
How to get there: 20-minute drive north from Sharm el-Sheikh.
Insider tip
South Sinai’s beach camps offer a genuinely off-the-beaten-path experience, and they’re well worth it. However, don’t count on finding all of them on Booking.com.
While some locations have social media pages and booking options, word of mouth goes a long way. A quick online search will help you find the phone numbers of most camp owners. Or try speaking with a local hotel owner to secure your spot – they can often help arrange your stay.
Remember, these camps are rustic, so plan as if you’re going camping. Bring everything you’ll need, and don’t forget to arrange transport to get both there and back.
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