The loss of Le Gavroche — which closes on Saturday, after 56 years of service — means many things. It means the capital is one two-star restaurant fewer and an icon down; it means Michel Roux Jr can relax a little; it means the loss of the soufflé Suissesse.
Restaurants and chefs make names for themselves, but rarely do dishes. But this did; nothing more than a cheese soufflé cooked on double cream, but something so rich and delicious that it became instantly revered. It is a taste not quickly forgotten.
