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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Azhar Qadri in Srinagar

‘Soon it will be like a museum’: the last rosewater shop in Kashmir

Abdul Aziz Kozgar at his shop in the Khankah-e-Maula neighbourhood in Srinagar's old city.
Abdul Aziz Kozgar at his shop in the Khankah-e-Maula neighbourhood in Srinagar's old city. Photograph: Umar Asif/The Guardian

On a bitterly cold morning near the banks of Jhelum River, Abdul Aziz Kozgar sits surrounded by the scent of roses, carrying the burden of legacy.

An ageing man with a trimmed white beard, Kozgar holds the poignant title of being the last maker of Arq-e-Gulab, or rosewater, in Kashmir.

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